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Hi, guys

My clutch itself is functioning perfectly, but the pedal requires me to push my foot right to the floor before the clutch engages. It's also got a creaky pedal sound, i don't know if that's related.

I've been quoted $100 for a replacement pedal box, and 4 hours labor to install it. I'm very poor at the moment, so thought I'd give it a go myself before giving up and sending the car to them.

I've done searches but can't find any tutorial or useful information. Can anybody point me in the right direction for replacing the clutch pedal box on a R33 GTS-T?

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Have the spot welds on the clutch pedal box snapped? I took mine out and rewelded it. Took me like 20/30 mins to take it out the first time. It's way to easy. Grad a torch and look under there, you will be surprised how easy it is!

Hi, guys

My clutch itself is functioning perfectly, but the pedal requires me to push my foot right to the floor before the clutch engages. It's also got a creaky pedal sound, i don't know if that's related.

I've been quoted $100 for a replacement pedal box, and 4 hours labor to install it. I'm very poor at the moment, so thought I'd give it a go myself before giving up and sending the car to them.

I've done searches but can't find any tutorial or useful information. Can anybody point me in the right direction for replacing the clutch pedal box on a R33 GTS-T?

easy job.

you don't need to take out the whole dash, just push the seat back as far as you can and you should have no issue undoing the bolts and replacing it

I don't know what you are saying, but i'm happy to check it out if you can explain it to me?

hey man ,

i just had the exact same problem , became so bad i almost had to put my foot through the floor!!! the pedal box is cracked and most likely wont last longer than a couple of months , i was freakin out too thinkin it was gonna be $600 - $700 ( as was quoted ) to fix , turns out its 3 bolts under the master cylinder and a bit of tetris action to remove ( and worse to get back in ) and a pin that runs through the box and the pedal , and boom drops straight out , a bit of welding and strengthening around the weak spots ( mine had 6 cracks and fractures ) , seriously took about 45 minutes of actual work!!!! think about it , so worth it !!!!

i payed the princely sum of.........NUTHING!!!!!!

feels like a button clutch should !!!!! beta than ever!!! STRONGER THAN NISMO ITEM!!!!

enjoy!!!

dspec2, i'd especially love your help on this, can you mark out exactly what you mean?

I have a very mechanically minded friend, and we'd love to tackle this together.

Alternatively, I'd love anybody to show me the bits that need replacing/welding, whatever, just take my pics and draw all over them if you wish :D

Sorry if they are crap quality, it's 12:30 at night so theres not alot of light around at the moment :D

post-43177-1271255685_thumb.jpg

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if it creaking its probably cracked and flexing, common problem.

So which bit needs to be replaced?

I'm just trying to work out what needs to be done, i figured that if i worked out how to install a turbo by myself, i should be able to do this, i just don't know where to start :)

Can you link me to a tutorial or information, or point out on those pictures, which part needs to be fixed?

Thanks guys!

this is the clutch pedal out of my 32. the spot welds im pointing to are possibly broken on yours. its bolted in three spots, 2 bolts go through your firewall and hold the clutch master on, the third is under the dash you can get to it with a 3/8 rachet small extension an 12mm socket. there is also a clevis pin that is in the pedal that you will need to pull out, its for your master cylinder rod. once the box is out you can either TIG or MIG weld it or buy a 2nd hand unit, or if your prepared to wait a few days get a nismo one from nengun or other supplier

pedalbox.pdf

Edited by turboedsloth

Alright,

I removed the pedal box as per instructions, probably took about half an hour, was done exactly as described: remove 2 clutch master cylinder bolts, remove the pin from the pedal (connecting it to master cylinder), and one final bolt u can get to with a few socket extensions, right above the clutch pedal springs :(

Anyway, now that it's removed, I can't see any problem with it, can you guys take a look and let me know what you think?

Basically, the clutch pedal squeaks (which i guess is tolerable, what lube would u guys recommend), but the main problem was that the "friction point" of the clutch was pretty much at the floor, so i had to put my foot almost through the firewall to change gears, it's totally driveable though, just alot more work than it should be.

Heres the pics, I didn't know what angle was best, so thought i'd give you 7 :( If you want a different angle, just let me know and i'll go take a pic.

I'd love to get this sorted, as I can't get too far without a clutch pedal :(

post-43177-1271471668_thumb.jpg

post-43177-1271471685_thumb.jpg

post-43177-1271471698_thumb.jpg

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Hey bud,

As far as i can remember Skylines have a hydraulically adjusting clutch. So they should compensate for the wear in the clutch.

But you can adjust the "friction" point of the clutch by adjusting the rod that connects the pedal to the master cylinder.

Just dont get to carried away and adjust it to beyond the point for the clutch fluid to be able to release pressure into the master cylinder reservoir as it gets hot.

If its biting on the floor you should adjust the master cylinder rod out....or towards the rear of the car. I believe that is the right way....but someone can correct me if im wrong.

You can also adjust the resting point of the clutch.....but again you want to keep the pedals pretty much in line. But there may be room to move a little there.

Cheers

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