Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

greddy guage set oil pressure oil temp exhuast temp $230

s15 s14 strut brace $40

s15 eyelids $30

s15 washer bottle $20

s15 overflow bottle $20

s15 parcel shelf $20

s15 under dash drivers side panel $20

s15 dual gauge pillar brand new $90

s15 genuine veilside rear bar painted blue $50

-4 fittings 180deg and 90deg $10ea or $40 for the lot i think theres roughly 12 fittings

-10 braided line 40cm and 30cm $20 the lot

brand new td05 oil drains x 2 $10 ea

2 inch striaght silicone hose will also throw in 4 assorted hoses aas well $30

s15 rear brake light $10

rb26 pistons x 6 and rods $60

rb26 rods x 6 $90

rb26 sump baffles $30

rb26 oil pressure sender $10

rb26 air con pump $50

5 inch canon $20

4 inch canon $20

4 inch canon with 1 metre of 3 inch pipe with 2 bolt flange $50

located on the gold coast

brad 0421511710

im sure there are more parts i will add them in the week

Keen on the braided lines, silicone connectors. Do you have any 3" to 2.5"? Any reducers around that size.

Any BOV suitable for rb25 flange? Will you post to Sydney? If so how much?

is the pressure sender in good working order and showing a good reading on the dash?

if it is then i'll take it!

hey mate not sure because i bought the engine for a conversion and i had to use the existing sender from the sr20 so never had it hooked up

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...