Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah I know the sound, I get it for the first 1-2 seconds on startup if the car has been sitting there. You'res definately doesn't cease.

I'm with the guys on this, foamy oil and the lifters staying that noisey kind of indicates that the upper head lubrication isn't going so well.

Edited by 666DAN

ive got a hoist on friday or saturday so im gonna give it a shot removing the sump, the thing that concerns me the most is how it is not there when i start up but after say 1min it is there?? like someone switched it on? Not the VVT is it? oh and if you dont mind coul someone (maybe trent) just give me some ideas of what to do/look out for when removing the sump, i will have two ppl that kinda know there way around an engine bay but more info the better in this situation.

edit: Never mind (just repeated some of the stuff that's already been said) .. Tow it to a reputable skyline mechanic, air in the oil doesn't sound good at all. How do you see the bubles anyway (where?) ?

hey i took it to racepace and they looked at it and couldnt 100% figure air bubbles without putting it on hoist but they noticed bubbles on dipstick and oil cap, there IS oil on the oil cap.

Hmm definitely a very abnormal sound. Not deep enough to be big end.....slight possibilty of little end but usually that's a sharper knock than that. Take a photo of the sump if you can. I wouldn't mind seeing the dent. They gotta come up a fair way to impede flow.

You were right before about the lines not mattering. It's a sandwich plate design with no relocator but the other two fittings on the side, I would still like to see the instruction sheet to be sure in case the block itself has a specific route. Does the oil cooler get warm with the engine?

If it's getting warm once the engine is running for a couple of minutes, then it is flowing correctly.

Other possibilities are broken valve spring or a shim that has come astray. I wouldn't be going to all the trouble of pulling the sump off yet. It is likely the camshaft will have to come out and chances are the dent is not that bad.

Post the pic for us to see

you guys probably getting drained by this already, i did another test. from dead cold start car made the ticking straight out. Then turned car off ofter it was hot, turned on NO TICKING WTF, there was this faint inconsistent, sound that didnt increase (it sounded quite normal engine sound), then i hoped in car, gave it some revs to 2k then to 3k no sound?? then i went to 4k, backed off and INSTANTLY the sound was there. ALSO no bubbles in oill at cold but once hot bubbles were on dip stick and oil cap, i have photos and footage, also posting the oil sump dent, doesnt look that bad??

for anyone interested just updating my progress. Look at the videos i uploaded aswell. Anyway i took off the sump the oil pickup looks new. i flushed the engine with wurths engine flush prior for ten mins to remove any gunk. engine looks really clean cleaned out the sump and the pickup. obviuosly when i put everything back together the ticking is still there. so i have eliminated one possible problem. I guess ill have to leave it for someone to open up the engine now i can not think of anything else. However i just have a hunch that its not something inside the engine. thanks for the guys that helped out on this issue cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks. 
    • I've always approached this as, price is comparable between low temp and high temp fluid. Just put in the high temp fluid. I've not going to lose any sleep thinking about could I have saved $20 on brake fluid that is going to live in the car over the next 2 to 3 years. 
    • Nah, the creases were pretty large, and the sheet metal is pretty thin and hard to work out, time alone is in the hours to fix, and would probably have more bog than I would be happy with In other, more happy news, I gave MX5 Mania a call and they have a few clean boots available for $400 a peice, I've contacted Fineline and given them their contact details, I'm a idiot for not thinking of them sooner
    • That really depends on how hot the brakes get and how much of any heat is transferred into the fluid. That really makes it at least a vehicle specific question, and more than like a specific vehicle specific question, depending on what brakes (ie stock, bigger rotors, different calipers) or even what pads are on it. And then there's the question of cooling air. Is there plenty stock? Is there no special cooling arrangements stock? Has some/more been added? In other words, I think you have to do the experiment to obtain the data. And if you;re worried - tie on some ducting?
    • In all the track days I've done over the past few months I've only had 1 issue with braking and thats with my current EBC pads (can't remember the colour, but they're not a track pad). I don't *think* I have had issues with brake fluid getting too hot, my understanding is that when that happens you will have quite noticeable brake loss - which I haven't had.  I'm using just regular ol' Penrite Super DOT4 fluid. I use this fluid in everything and my cars always seem to stop so I see no reason to change, except ... for the 335i. I need to do a fluid flush and was thinking about my fluid of choice and wondering if I should consider using something more high temp? Its not a super fast car by any standards but I'd hate to do a flush and then find myself with no brakes when I get. to Wakefield.  I guess, my question can be summed up as "How fast do you need to be driving to need higher temp brake fluid?"  I remember high temp fluid was considered a must have back in the day when I had my GTR. 
×
×
  • Create New...