Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gt Rear Wheel Bearing

ShanO`
 Share

Recommended Posts

ShanO` Collaborator

ShanO`

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

Over the last few days I have noticed a massive vibration coming from the rear of the car.

Today I was changing the wheels on my car and noticed a massive amount of (vertical) play when holding the wheel at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock position

I'm assuming that I have a rooted wheel bearing

Does anyone know a part number and a good place to purchase them from?

Cheers

Shane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316860-r34-gt-rear-wheel-bearing/
Share on other sites
haw001 Rising Star

haw001

Posted
Posted
actually....I think we just came across something cheaper (I have always bought nissan until now......4x= OUCH!)

will try and confirm and post up details

No rear option for bearings other than Nissan.

I just purchased a set of aftermarket rears for a great price of $100 each, only to find out that the listing is incorrect, and is in fact only for the gt-st etc.

Of course I found this out after pulling the old ones apart, so I had no option but to buy genuine nissan ones to replace them, at more than 3x the cost!

Mark

haw001 Rising Star

haw001

Posted
Posted

This IS available aftermarket. The GTR one is different. This is the bearing they sent me for the GTR which is slightly too small and lacks the handbrake braked on top.

You should expect to pay $150 or less.

I think the manufacturer is CBC bearing, but I'm not sure. And parts place should be able to look it up for you and order it. You don't need to go through Nissan.

What you will get is the cradle and bearing, so all you need to do is push out the hub centre and press it in to the new bearing. You need a press for this, don't even think about using a club hammer.

Mark.

  • 2 weeks later...
grigor Rising Star

grigor

Posted
Posted

These bearings are available from decent bearing suppliers. You will need to take your old bearing in to compare as the listing isn't correct.

They list the R34 GTT as the same bearing as an S13.

I note the bearing in your photo doesn't have the handbrake anchor cast onto the bearing housing. The aftermarket S13 bearings I bought came with the that anchor, but it isn't required as the S13 doesn't have a drum style handbrake.

You may find that you can still use the bearing even though it has the handbrake anchor, worked fine in the S13.

Cost $90 per side.

The only bearing I'm having difficulty sourcing is the R32 GTR, but I'm not giving up.

R32gts-t Experienced

R32gts-t

Posted
Posted

sorry to hijack the thread,

i've got an r32 gts-t rear end in my s13, if i clutch in and coast/roll along- i have excessive road noise and i think the wheels bearings in the rear have given up.

anyone know how much i should expect to pay for new bearings?

and can i replace them myself?

or

is it a mechanics job?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      Boxes of oil?

      By PranK · Posted

      Dang. I love the little 'oil used' bingo card on the side.   🤣  Well, now they can use a box and an oil-filled goon.
    • MBS206
      Coc or nox of nissan skyline

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Many many moons ago, I was chatting with Andy Wyatt, about his auto ignition tuning. One of the HUGE things he said to me, when tuning for power, right where you hit peak ignition timing for your max torque, dramatically increases NOx emissions. He was finding in testing, particularly on engines you could advance timing beyond peak torque, that backing the ignition timing off a couple of degrees only made for a small drop in torque (compared to if you keep backing it off further the same amount of degrees) but dramatically reduced NOx emissions. I'd say targetting for 14.7, and he's even mentioned in some scenarios going slightly leaner, and pulling a few degrees of IGN timing will help pass for emissions quite a lot. However, who tunes an RB for emissions
    • MBS206
      Exhaust silencers/varex exhausts

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The main stuff from.Vibrant I see is more their intercooler piping, and everyone raving about their clamps, but when I looked it was about $150 per clamp... I was a bit   I also thought the public price SP had up was high. As Mark said, a normal exhaust shop can fab them. It was many years ago that I had a full exhaust built, but for a full turbo back exhaust, and 2 custom built mufflers, plus a high flow cat, was about $1,100, and that was fully installed, drive in, drive out. I believe SP was about $900 for 2 mufflers, just supplied   These days, I just buy the material and built it myself, because I need to stretch my $$$
    • joshuaho96
      Coc or nox of nissan skyline

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I'm pretty sure if it's considered a gasoline powered vehicle you have to do certification against a fixed, very expensive certification fuel.  If you add two precats and then replace the main cat with two cats back to back you can get an RB26 to do 0.24 g/mi HC, 1.6 g/mi CO, and 0.3 g/mi NOx on the FTP-75 drive cycle. Found this out courtesy of California's laws at great expense. Divide by 1.61 to get g/km. So even with extra cats + precats you're blowing past the NOx limit by probably 2.3x. Probably the only way to get an RB25 or RB26 to meet euro 4 purely from an emissions per km standpoint and not durability/OBD2 requirements is retrofit at least intake side VVT, clearance the pistons to allow the full 50 degrees of advance so part throttle EGR can be maximized, and change the wastegate control from conventional 7 psi spring for example to one that is always fully open if the wastegate line is at 1 atm or higher and only close it in response to vacuum. See BMW's N54 engine as a reference for how this works. You would need to find space for a vacuum tank to function as an accumulator in this system. That way you can avoid any heat loss to the turbine as much as possible during cold start to heat the catalyst faster. Then find some way to eliminate as much as possible cold start enrichment to light off the catalyst rapidly. Maybe secondary air injection if there's no way to avoid cold start enrichment. Close coupled catalysts in the downpipe are probably necessary. I would also probably swap to EV14s, pick something with the correct spray targeting + dual cone pattern for the intake manifold you're using. EV1 style injectors to pass anything resembling modern emissions requires a very annoying air assisted injector system to break up the droplets at part throttle/idle which still doesn't work that great compared to just having smaller droplets from the injector to begin with. Realistically, you're probably going to be financially ahead if you just pay the fines instead. Or don't drive it into the city center. There's a reason why Nissan never bothered to even attempt certifying an RB for CA/US emissions. The VG30 needed external EGR on top of NVCS to pass in the 90s. Doing all of this work is also distinctly expensive and you're going to struggle to find anyone who is remotely interested in helping. 
    • The Bogan
      Boxes of oil?

      By The Bogan · Posted

      I remember those, people use to steal them to make bongs.....
×
×
  • Create New...