Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i read a post on the zed forums about suspension setup for drags (by a guy who ran 10.95 with stock turbos and engine) who said to run stock shocks/springs on the front and put higher damping on the rear since when the rear squats it induces negative camber and toe (it has something to do with the IRS and antisquat geometry, i am not too sure exactly) which reduces your tyre contact area. i had always though soft rear was best for drags but pretty much every other zed guy i have spoken to has said the same thing as this guy and said they ran better times that way. i figured r32 and z32 may have similar rear suspension setup.

anyway back on topic, yes you should go to calder ric. i would like to race again but the clutch did not like 4500rpm launches and it was still bogging down so need to upgrade clutch before I go again.

Just chuck a turbo back exhaust on it i recon, the rims are ok, maybe a pod / larger fmic if needed? and up the boost a bit for the drags.. would be nice :D

Do you have semi slicks / slicks for your r32? i assume so by looking at your sig

Yeah I run semi's on the 32 for circuit work.

It's quite suprising but standard exhaust is good for 320rwkw's apparently. Cat would probably have to change I imagine.

Sandeep. Drags is all about weight transfer but if that weight transfer causes negative camber then that's a problem. Standard susp is pretty good for 1/4 mile stuff.

(by a guy who ran 10.95 with stock turbos and engine)

I Highly doubt that!

i read a post on the zed forums about suspension setup for drags (by a guy who ran 10.95 with stock turbos and engine) who said to run stock shocks/springs on the front and put higher damping on the rear since when the rear squats it induces negative camber and toe (it has something to do with the IRS and antisquat geometry, i am not too sure exactly) which reduces your tyre contact area. i had always though soft rear was best for drags but pretty much every other zed guy i have spoken to has said the same thing as this guy and said they ran better times that way. i figured r32 and z32 may have similar rear suspension setup.

Exactly why you don't listen to everything you read on the forums...get your rear geometry right to account for some of the negative camber on the squat and have soft rears to get the weight transfer towards the back...a zed is a car like any other...the laws of physics still apply to it...

Baha some of the stuff on the zed forums is bloody funny to read :)

Yes softer is better as prevously mentioned, and if you have adjustable UCAs, running positive camber is the way to go to account for dynamic camber on squat.

I cant wait to put some softer springs in and slide some slicks on, try and hit the 10 bracket :P

Yeah man. Is yours auto or man?

I ended up with the auto. I wanted a manual but after taking an auto for a test drive just for comparisons sake, I was hooked. They are so damn good!

Did you try using the launch control at all?

I ended up with the auto. I wanted a manual but after taking an auto for a test drive just for comparisons sake, I was hooked. They are so damn good!

Did you try using the launch control at all?

Yeah launch control every time. holds 3600 rpm.

Even though it's known as a launch control it's more of a static rev limit coz when you go over 10kph it disengages and you wheel spin starts. At calder I didn't have much of an issue with wheel spin coz it's pretty grippy.

Yeah launch control every time. holds 3600 rpm.

Even though it's known as a launch control it's more of a static rev limit coz when you go over 10kph it disengages and you wheel spin starts. At calder I didn't have much of an issue with wheel spin coz it's pretty grippy.

Ah yeah, I wasn't too sure on how it worked. Auto ones don't have LC. They just get a nice crackle throught the exhaust when you change gears. It's rather addictive actually :)

Definatly keen on taking it down to the next meet. A stock auto one running high 12's is very encouraging.

i read a post on the zed forums about suspension setup for drags (by a guy who ran 10.95 with stock turbos and engine) who said to run stock shocks/springs on the front and put higher damping on the rear since when the rear squats it induces negative camber and toe (it has something to do with the IRS and antisquat geometry, i am not too sure exactly) which reduces your tyre contact area. i had always though soft rear was best for drags but pretty much every other zed guy i have spoken to has said the same thing as this guy and said they ran better times that way. i figured r32 and z32 may have similar rear suspension setup.

anyway back on topic, yes you should go to calder ric. i would like to race again but the clutch did not like 4500rpm launches and it was still bogging down so need to upgrade clutch before I go again.

What the Fuck?!

I assume they are talking about a Z32..?

A stock Z32 can run a 10.95 with modified rear suspension?

:)

I would like to see the quarter mile time sheet.

stock unopened engine and turbos but more boost, tuned + bolt on mods. did some more reading and turns out he was running 80 shot of Nos too which i didn't know before. still an impressive time though, best stock turbo/stock engine zed i can find in australia is high 11's without nos. and yeah have been doing more reading and all the guys who drag zeds say to run stiffer on the rear. i think it is more due to the design of the irs on the zed which is not suited to drag racing, not just camber on squat like femno said but also toe changes. and yeah as limpus said you can change the mounting points for the control arms to fix this, which is what UAS have been doing, but pretty expensive so I guess this is why everyone just ups the damping on the rear.

What the Fuck?!

I assume they are talking about a Z32..?

A stock Z32 can run a 10.95 with modified rear suspension?

:)

I would like to see the quarter mile time sheet.

stock unopened engine and turbos but more boost, tuned + bolt on mods. did some more reading and turns out he was running 80 shot of Nos too which i didn't know before. still an impressive time though, best stock turbo/stock engine zed i can find in australia is high 11's without nos. and yeah have been doing more reading and all the guys who drag zeds say to run stiffer on the rear. i think it is more due to the design of the irs on the zed which is not suited to drag racing, not just camber on squat like femno said but also toe changes. and yeah as limpus said you can change the mounting points for the control arms to fix this, which is what UAS have been doing, but pretty expensive so I guess this is why everyone just ups the damping on the rear.

I see...

The VG30DETT had more potential then I thought.

Well at least you cleared that up :)

LOL! @ NOS.

You don't need that Sandeep.

Yeah launch control every time. holds 3600 rpm.

Even though it's known as a launch control it's more of a static rev limit coz when you go over 10kph it disengages and you wheel spin starts. At calder I didn't have much of an issue with wheel spin coz it's pretty grippy.

Hey buddy,

Good to see you have tried the XR6 at Calder, I have a manual FG XR6 Turbo ute as well, the launch control is sooo good but I am having the same problem as you. It launches really well but as soon as it gets going it starts to spin the wheels in the mid rpm range.

Even second gear is a little tail happy unless you ease it into gear.

Hey buddy,

Good to see you have tried the XR6 at Calder, I have a manual FG XR6 Turbo ute as well, the launch control is sooo good but I am having the same problem as you. It launches really well but as soon as it gets going it starts to spin the wheels in the mid rpm range.

Even second gear is a little tail happy unless you ease it into gear.

Haha. So many FG's! post up a pic

this is mine.

post-10715-1271770949_thumb.jpg

I love the colour!

They are all good colours! The lux pack 19's are nice too but I couldn't justify the extra considering I would probably change em anyway.

Where did you get yours? Strapp ford? Our number plates are only 6 numbers apart!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Definitely didn't put a N/A cluster in instead? The speed sensor (location) is different in both cars.... I think. This will obviously stuff things up.
    • Nah not the throwout bearing, it's something internal. I already replaced the throwout bearing. Mechanic misdiagnosed my car and thought it was a spigot bearing, went to another bloke who said it was an input shaft bearing. (I replaced everything when I pulled out the gearbox but didn't open up the gearbox.   In this video at timestamp 6:05 : Mine has the same sound  min
    • It is definitely to space it out and away for clearance during compression, and possibly for spring clearance to upper arm. That latter would only be true for springs that are same-ish diameter to stockers, and so that probably doesn't apply to Teins or most other coilovers.
    • Yeah, a mechanic who knows these cars told me even if I get a brand new gearbox the noise will return but will be less noticeable. I've heard someone also they this noise came back after 3,000km on a new or reconditioned gearbox. It is pretty f**king annoying though just hearing groaning most of the time lol. I wonder if an aftermarket input shaft bearing would fix the problem or how they are built.
    • All RB gearbags, especially the big turbo box, have rollover noise. Mine certainly does. Always has. Sometimes is worse than others - no particular idea why, although it is probably temperature related. I have smurf jizz in mine and have had to have it in there from the first day the box went into teh car. It simply would not select gears with the engine on, on day one, with normal oil in there. And so, the blue stuff has probably ruined almost everything synchro related in the box. But it has taken 12 or 13 years to get to the point where I simply must replace the box. It has become increasingly baulky of late, which might be symptomatic of the way I've been driving it, as much as anything. I shall have to make some corrections when teh new box goes in. Input shaft bearing noise will decrease with clutch pedal pressed because the drive is removed. But yes, more often than not noises that work like that are associated with the throwout. It won't matter either way, new box will mean this one can be relegated to the parts pile.
×
×
  • Create New...