Jump to content
SAU Community

Dose Pipe?


Recommended Posts

You need to disable the blow off valve so that it cant release the air. You dont need any specific type of pipe, but a metal pipe with a pod will give the loudest dose. Theres a huge thread on a vl forum about the different shaped intake pipes and what type of noise they make BAHAHAHAHAHA!

Unfortunately though I dont know how to disable the blow off valve as I am new to skylines.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need to disable the blow off valve so that it cant release the air. You dont need any specific type of pipe, but a metal pipe with a pod will give the loudest dose. Theres a huge thread on a vl forum about the different shaped intake pipes and what type of noise they make BAHAHAHAHAHA!

Unfortunately though I dont know how to disable the blow off valve as I am new to skylines.

cool.. i kno how to disable the bov and add metal pipe... just not sure on what to do with the hoses once i remove the standard intake pipe..

any help would be useful...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pff, everyone keeps repeating that crap about turbo chatter, 'dose' and compressor surge. People blow up their turbos by putting more boost into it, there still isn't any proof 'dose' has wrecked any turbos. Sure, in theory, engineering/mechanics wise, it should wear it more, but no more than a few % and far less than abusing it with high boost etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can just remove factor blow off valve and cap it off with something. and block off the hose going to blow off valve.

this should be plenty of dose for you, if you want more then get a metal pipe intake arm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pff, everyone keeps repeating that crap about turbo chatter, 'dose' and compressor surge. People blow up their turbos by putting more boost into it, there still isn't any proof 'dose' has wrecked any turbos. Sure, in theory, engineering/mechanics wise, it should wear it more, but no more than a few % and far less than abusing it with high boost etc.

Sort of depends on how much damage your willing to accept then.

There should be a way to quantify exactly how much the reversion slows the wheel down, but it probably wouldnt mean much unless you could whack it on a dyno for back to back comparisons.

Cheers,

Mitch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

unbolt your stock BOV, trace it out on a rubber matt or plastic or aluminium, punch out 2x holes for the bolts, bolt back everything.. looks stock, flutters like a the sphincter of the universe :D

I did that when my stock BOV couldn't handle the boost but it got annoying so I replaced it with an aftermarket plumb back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's called search, use it:

Dose pipe: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/se...te=%2Bdose+pipe

Hektik flutter: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/se...Bhektik+flutter

VL uleh: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/se...lite=%2Bvl+uleh

Sick flutter: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/se...%2Bsick+flutter

Seriously, it aint hard. Justy type in an adjective describing what you want "sick, hektik, fully, awesome, mad" and then an adjective describing the noise "flutter, dose, pidgeon, zututu" and you will find a billion threads.

*Sigh*

Edited by PM-R33
Link to comment
Share on other sites

dear god, all the guy wants to know is wtf to do with the lines that go in to the standard intake pipe ffs... not anything about the bov, im sure after the 5th person repeated it he gets the idea

and i blody dont know the answer so... f**k someone tell him wtf to do with them!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One will be BOV return. Don't need this when dosing.

Other will be breather return from cam covers. Either get a catch-can or put a fitting in your metal intake pipe for that hose to push onto...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One will be BOV return. Don't need this when dosing.

Other will be breather return from cam covers. Either get a catch-can or put a fitting in your metal intake pipe for that hose to push onto...

could i just leave it....????? technically it wouldnt be going any where anyway.. would it..???????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No because it will be a vacuum leak since from factory one side goes to the plenum the other into that intake pipe (not to mention if you just left it open oil could drip out onto the exhaust manifold and start a fire). So either block the right side off or get a catch can or plumb it into your new pipe.

Edited by PM-R33
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's called search, use it:

Dose pipe: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/se...te=%2Bdose+pipe

Hektik flutter: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/se...Bhektik+flutter

VL uleh: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/se...lite=%2Bvl+uleh

Sick flutter: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/se...%2Bsick+flutter

Seriously, it aint hard. Justy type in an adjective describing what you want "sick, hektik, fully, awesome, mad" and then an adjective describing the noise "flutter, dose, pidgeon, zututu" and you will find a billion threads.

*Sigh*

love your work...awesome.

on topic...why you would want to do such a thing is beyond me. Sorry Mr Cosgriff :)

Edited by Swiper the Fox
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
    • Here's the torque curves from the car I ramped boost up later in the rpm to allow a slightly wider useful power curve - the power curve is a bit weird shaped also thanks to the TVIS (or whatever they call it with the 4EFTE in this Starlet) which changes the volume of the intake manifold throughout the rpm range, but you can see that the green power curve actually holds later on with the extra boost... but looks almost more like the kind of thing you'd expect from a cam or exhaust change
×
×
  • Create New...