Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, Up for sale is a heap of R32 Skyline parts and RB20det turbo parts

from a wreaked R32 Gtst Skyline 93 model, 2 door.

R32 Skyline parts are:

Gtst Bonnet (Silver) $100

Rear seat (top and bottom) $40

Space saver spare wheel cover $20

Drivers door (Black) $30

Drivers power window motor $80

Rear brake calipers $40 pair

Rear brake discs $20 pair

Interior light $10

Stereo brakets and compartment $20

Left side electric mirror (Black) $50

Rear drivers side quarter trim (Bottom half) $10

Drivers side front guard liner $10

Centre console tunnel surround $10

Pioneer stereo 200w detach face $20

Sub 10" Base 500w in proper carpet box and connections $30

Scuff plates $20 pair

Indicator stalk (whole mechanism) $50

Windscreen wiper motor $40

Boot lid (black) (slight repariable damage) $20

Rear SKYLINE garnish is black. SKYLINE in mirror letters, sits between rear tail lights. Looks great $80

RB20det turbo parts:

Throttle body with sensors $30

Intake plenum manifold with all sensors $50

Fuel rail and injectors $50

Starter motor $50

Power steering pump with bracket and pulley $80

Air con compressor $50

Air con compressor and adjustment pulley $20

Coil Packs $80

Stock turbo with front pipe and all oil and water lines $350

Turbo actuator $50

Stock dump pipe ( turbo to cat) $20

Stock cat $20

Crossover pipe with bov mount $40

Stock intercooler piping (Underbonnet) $30

Clutch fan $40

Brake Booster $30

H2o Sensor $20

Flywheel $50

Crank angle sensor $40

Engine bay fuse box with fuses and relays $20

5 speed gearbox $500

Manual Tail shaft $80

Im located in Ashfield (Sydney)

Postage can be arranged at buyers expense

PM or contact me Sam 0415126075

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/316993-r32-skyline-rb20det-parts/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue.
    • Anything above ~9.5V is acceptable. The higher the better, but it will almost always drop to at least 10.5V, if not lower, even with a new big battery and everything else being good. 9.76 is not a concern. If it goes below 9, you'd be sure that there's a problem with either the battery or the connections.
    • It's new almost. Under a year old i think and I've tested it twice at supercheap
    • Glue the head from a Pez dispenser on it. Goofy, or Winnie the Pooh, so something.
    • Adjusting the idle screw is usually (emphasis on usually) just covering up deeper issues. Stuff like the cold start valve not closing properly. Throttle shaft seals on the way out. Coolant temp sensors getting out of spec. Coolant temp sensors especially can be a bear to diagnose because they can fail subtly. My dad just spent weeks chasing down his high idle. He cleaned the coolant temp sensor and everything but the resistance curve just drifts over time and if it's been 20+ years they also get super slow to respond as well. Has a massive effect on fuel economy as if it's off the ECU is going to run richer and command high idle for far longer than it should otherwise.
×
×
  • Create New...