Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

had alot of trouble at supercup so selling my head off my motor and stripping the car,

so i have-

rb25de non vct head

bolts straight to rb30 blocks no hassles,has been on 3 of them so far in my drift car,

head is still perfect and complete,

will come with rebuilt rb30 block still on it,block was rebuilt 1.5 track days ago,but has low oil pressure for some reason so would need to be pulled down or replaced,

will come with inlet,turbo manifold etc

can hear running,but with blown hks turbo strapped to it

$500 firm

located mawson lakes sa

0431683303

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317350-rb25de-headnon-vct-r32-model/
Share on other sites

just quietly, this is a bargain...

Only head that can be used on an RB30DET in a 32 gtst without having to change wiring etc.

Bought mine for $800 a year or so ago.

Wish I hadnt bought mine now, and snapped this one up!

RARE AS!

Edited by R32Abuser

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 1. I can't see a location on your profile but you do mention GBP so I'll assume you are in UK. In Australia, CBC make a timing belt kit with the gears and idler and tension bearing and that is what I use without any problems. I'm sure OEM or HKS are also fine but I wouldn't pay extra for HKS over anything else. 2. Yes, I would always change the idler and tensioner and the stud and bolt that hold them in. Assuming they were all done last time it is highly unlikely you would have a problem, but they are very cheap to add to the job considering the time it will take anyway.  3. No, you don't need to lock them as such (I think that is more for engines without timing marks), but you should make sure they move as little as possible once the belt is off as you can hit pistons on valves if they move too far. As always, make sure you line it all up to top dead centre with the timing marks aligned before you take the old belt off.
    • How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
    • Hey everyone,   I’m looking for some advice on replacing the timing belt on my RB25DET Neo-powered 1998 Skyline. The engine was fully built about five years ago, including a fresh timing belt, water pump, and other essentials. However, since then, the car has only covered around 2,000–3,000 miles. It’s currently making around 650hp.   Even though the mileage is low, I know timing belts have a time-based lifespan too, and most recommendations suggest changing them every five to six years or 50,000 miles. Since I’m at that time mark, I’d rather not take any risks and plan to swap it out soon.   A few things I’d like to hear opinions on: 1. What’s the best belt for this setup? Should I go with an OEM Nissan belt, or is the HKS fine-tune a better choice given the power level? 2. Would you bother replacing the idler pulley and tensioner at the same time, or only if they show wear? 3. When swapping the belt, is it necessary to lock the cam and crank gears in place, or is lining up the timing marks enough? I’ve seen different approaches, and I want to make sure I do it right.   The water pump was changed with the rebuild and isn’t run off the timing belt, so I don’t see a need to replace it again. I just want to make sure I approach this the right way.   Any insight would be much appreciated. Thanks!
    • How does this compare to the internally gated g25-550 in terms of power production at same psi and spool
×
×
  • Create New...