Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi.

Maybe your original tune is not right. Perhaps your ignition map is not correct. I have seen 252awhp with a dyno sheet showing afrs as they should be but the car was capable of more. Taken 2 days later to another tuner here in brisbane- 10 minutes correcting ignition map only and 308awhp as it should have been.

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

just to clear a few things up..

my set up has had it fair share of issues,

t04z on stock rb26 i was only making 315kw on 25pound. replaced engine to my old built one from my dr30, went to 376kw. the inly differance was pon cams and a very light port.

so.. from my experance, and excluding all the 450kw freaks out there, cams netted me a gain of 60kw atw... and it was still not making as much as id hoped. but looking at my graph it falls over up top sugesting a spring upgrade is a good idea.

thanks T04GTR, ive got the Hks Step 2 valve springs in it and am looking at hks 265 step 2 cams.... ive got a better manifold, bigger dump is under construction, the only other thing is to grab a good waste gate... with that setup we and 25psi we should be looking at about your power, was hoping for 400kw atw but id be happy with what your getting.. thanks everyone for all your help... will keep you all updated with the results.....

I think its just a safe tune.. but not to sure.....

not sure who else does VIPEC computers in bris???

any sugestions... i have another 5000klm before was gonna go all out with the tune

Wait wait wait, whoa whoa whoa

after all the suggestions and people trying to offer experience and help, now you say it's a run in tune?

Who cares what power it makes during run in, even 100kw is enough.

Mine on run in made something like 150kw atw, of course it was a safe tune, ran stuff all boost and wasn't rich to make sure the cylinders didn't get too much fuel on the sides.

Ran in and tuned, 455kw atw.

Morale of the story, if this is a run in tune and you don't really know what's going on, ring the tuner, ask exactly what the tune is for, and if it is just for run in, get the k's on it quickly then go back.

In the meantime, don't stress.

  • 3 weeks later...
Its already run in, by the time the run in tune is done, its already run in, just a way for tuners to make money out of customers

True but to be fair many engines are not built by the tuner.

When i build my own customers engines i will run in and tune in one dyno session, BUT if it was built by the owner or by someone else i have no previous experience with i will often do a decent run in tune say 80 % of projected peak then ask the customer to drive the car for 2000-5000km to heat cycle everything (joiners, gaskets etc) to iron out any potential issues then come back and charge by the hour for the final 20%. I figure 5000km will show up any potential issues.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...