Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I was thinking of changing to a ford facing plenum to reduce the pluming and make the top of the engine look neater but then I wondered where I was going to put the bov. Is there a position that still makes it a plum back and how hard is this to do.

Thanks

Phil

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317552-plenum-bov/
Share on other sites

at the risk or (re)starting an argument....I changed to FF plenum and didn't worry about the BOV.

Other than the silly noise when I change gears flat out, no issues so far. It is possible there is an impact on potential turbo life but there is a lot of opinions out there on that one. I was willing to take the chance as its a cheap turbo

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317552-plenum-bov/#findComment-5191231
Share on other sites

Hi all

I was thinking of changing to a ford facing plenum to reduce the pluming and make the top of the engine look neater but then I wondered where I was going to put the bov. Is there a position that still makes it a plum back and how hard is this to do.

Thanks

Phil

Doing this at the moment. Generally put the bov between the the outlet of the fmic and the throttle body, so on the drivers side under the battery. Then you will need to run a pipe back to the inlet side, similar to a GTR setup.

I have a spare GTR BOV for sale while you are at it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317552-plenum-bov/#findComment-5191255
Share on other sites

any updates on it darrin?

i still haven't started mine, still working on my ute :(

Pretty much ready to bolt up. I have been holding off because I was going to not use this plenum and buy a plazmaman instead, until I worked out the PM plenum will hit the bonnet with the rb30 in the future.

Might try and get some done tonight

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317552-plenum-bov/#findComment-5192068
Share on other sites

could always run it on the hot side piping, makes it easy to run the plum-back pipe

I am planning to do this for mine as well. I have seen suggestions that it should be near the throttle body or near the turbo but when the bov opens pressure drop is the same everywhere so really it makes no difference where you put it so on the hot side is neatest.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317552-plenum-bov/#findComment-5192087
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info.

I think I will go with Darren’s idea and put it on the driver’s side under the battery and plum it back. I will have a closer look this weekend. I was hoping to reuse the bov to keep cost down.

Thanks again

Phil

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317552-plenum-bov/#findComment-5192476
Share on other sites

I ended up putting mine on the hot side of the front mount as it made it much easier to pipe up. I must confess that I forgot I was running a panel filter and where I put the BOV it fouled the air box. Not to worry I went pod.Looks nice.

For someone who wants to go FF, if you can afford it, Darrin's idea is better. Get a Plazman. All you have to do is take the top off. All that stuff under the runners is a PITA.

Also if you are careful you don't have to move the washer bottle as Duncan had to do. And you can get two helicopter batteries on the tray giving 540 cca.

I'm fairly IT illiterate but if anyone wants some pics I will need an email address. So PM me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317552-plenum-bov/#findComment-5192491
Share on other sites

i'm going to be using a std gtr setup but it has been welded to the bottom runners of a rb25 so it will bolt up. will be using std injectors as well, just have to get the neo fuel rail to bolt to the manifold and will run the rb26 aac valve becuase thats what the bottom air box has been made up to use.

ive been alittle busy with my hilux atm cos the engine died, and the stag is the MRS car which needs to be on the road all the time so playing with it is very minimal.

the only real other issue i have with it is the TPS. the neo and the gtr use different setups. wiring is similar in that they have 6 wires, 3 for tps and 3 for auto. i just need to know which colours are what on both to wire up.

here are some pics of my ute conversion too :D

IMG_0247.jpg

P1010051.jpg

post-4857-1271933300_thumb.jpg

post-4857-1271933311_thumb.jpg

post-4857-1271933319_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317552-plenum-bov/#findComment-5194988
Share on other sites

Currently I run a chinese Greddy copy.

Worked ok, the front of it was cut off because of fitment and to weld the tb on but now theres a pinhole leak on one of the runner arms.

Bought a plazmaman and powdercoated intake runners so itll be on when Im more cashed up

As for fitment: went on ok (see above about the cut/weld, needed an SR20 throttle cable (the old one wasnt long enough? stupid chinese 80mm tb with no tps) custom piping made to get to the fmic, BOV is on that pipe about 200mm away from the fmic core (turbosmart dual port)

Also, needed a smaller battery so it wasnt in the way.

On a side note, a mate has put a plazmaman on his r33 (rb30/25) It fouls on the bonnet!!! I think this is only due to the extra 30mm height of the rb30 block but when buying a plenum beware of its height (if it runs on the standard runners) and be wary of the battery, buy a smaller one/rotate it for fiment

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317552-plenum-bov/#findComment-5195417
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • well mate, while I hear your pain, turns out I don't feel it this time! Must have been a bastard of a job crammed into the boot The tank was very empty (probably pumped out, not dropped and drained because there were some fumes still) and in very good condition internally. I'm sure he never ran e85 in it I don't know what the hell Nissan's fuel tank engineers were thinking about their clipping system, this hanger was really hard to get moving but came out in the end All looks very good (as I'm starting to hopefully expect) and Matty was right it is an 023 (044) bosch which should be plenty for the injectors and turbo
    • Saturday 8th February 2025 8:30am Capped 26 entries Standard Entry Fee: $89 Members Entry Fee: $55 (SAU Victoria Only) Entries Close: Thursday 6th February 8pm. Supp Regs: TBC Disclaimer: Download  Please electronically sign and email to [email protected] or print and hand in and Driver Sign In. email [email protected] To compete in this event you will require A valid AASA General speed licence Or (Day license is $35.00 via the AASA Website) MA licenses no longer accepted A helmet, long sleeve clothing and it is reccomended a 1KG mounted fire extinguisher (But not Mandatory). Further details within Supp Regs Above. You can bring and have a passenger in the car but they need to comply to the same safety and clothing as driver. Entry Link >> https://www.sauvic.com.au/entry/deca/20250208 Entry List: 1. Martin Sullivan 2.  3.  4.  5.  6.  7.  8.  9. 10.  11. 12.   13. 14 15.  16.  17.  18.  19. 20.  21.  22.  23.  24.  25. 26.    Reserve list 1.  2.
    • I had absolutely no symptoms whatsoever that anything was wrong.... I'm very happy it was all spotto'd and re-bled and re-torqued and aligned though. Will be picking it up tomorrow and undoubtedly be like "Oh, that clunk is gone" "Oh, the car really wants to drive straight" "Oh, that pedal feels better" "Oh, it feels like I've gained 25hp" "Oh, the handbrake works now" It should have been a sign that the new Project Mu shoes had 3mm of pad depth on them out of the box, and the OEM ones from 25 years ago that we took out also had 3mm of pad depth, implying the issue was not, and never was the shoes, but we put that down to it not being adjusted correctly. It wasn't, but it wasn't even adjustable at all given one side was boned and the T Junction of the cables was on a 45 degree angle, the non-working side being the one on the massive angle. Obviously when I had adjusted it and reset it and re-tensioned it I had either got it stuck or something along those lines. Oh well. Live and learn and absolutely could have been catastrophically worse so I'm rationalizing it as a win, kinda. I also got the chance to measure the distance between rear rim and the suspension arm/shocks and found a 30mm rubber block only just doesn't fit there. Which is great to know before ordering wheels, when I assumed 30mm was easy. The man with the Porsche adapters has rims that use 23.9mm of that space, so it's safe to assume I have between 23.9 and 29.9mm of space there to play with on the inside. The wheels looked pretty stupidly pokey with the 20mm spacers on the rear, only for me to find that the studs come out another 12mm and the wheel doesn't actually sit flush with the hub because you're supposed to cut your original studs. The wheels do have cutouts that kinda accomodate it, but not fully. So my 20mm spacer was anywhere between 25mm and 35mm. ~25mm and send it will determine on where the wheels sit with the spacers on. When I put the pads in for the track day I will mess around with spacers (with wheels that do not clear studs properly when mounted to spacers) and do more math, for the last time, for the 7th time.
    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
×
×
  • Create New...