Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i currently have a r33 gts t and am selling it to buy a gtr r33 v spec what are these like ? reliability , as an everyday driver ? i really like them just wanting to know some info on them before i buy one

cheers

regaurds dan !

There's a lot of info on this if you do a search (mostly on comparison of 32/33gtr or 33gtr to 34gtt etc).

Anyway like any other imports, so long as you dont land yourself with a lemon, everything would be the same as any twin turbo cars. Personally I wouldnt bother much with cars below 23-25k because chance of getting a really good one is very low (not saying you shouldnt give them a go but the chances would be lower).

There's plenty of 33gtrs in the market now but the price vary significantly (from as low as 18k? to 30k+). Theres a reason for this (either mods or condition of car). Test drive them and get them checked professionally.

The 33gtr is my only car and dont see any issue with them being a daily. I havent done much to mine but so far, it hasnt given me any problem at all (own it for slightly more than 1year).

you own a 33gtst. your looking at a 33gtr... they're not THAT different both rb's, both nissans, similar years

so what your asking is, how does one well engineered nissan compare to anoither excellently engineered nissan?

Answer... they're great and very similar, they drive differently, as they have different configurations, and oddly enough, the one with more complex parts is a little more expensive to maintain.

what should i look for when buying one has anyone seen the one on carsales for 25 k the one with harliquin paint cant spell that but yeah can someone tell me anything bout this has to many mods to explain check it out !!! gtr http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...6&silo=1011

It's certainly worth a look Dan.

Take along someone that's experienced with the RB26DETT and listen carefully as he talks to the engine builder and asks Qs

And then your mechanic friend can tick things off his list re: suspension/engine/brakes/drivetrain. He can order a compression test on cylinders.

You can check out history.

See whether or not the RTA has an odometer reading (from past registrations) that is higher or lower that the 36xxxkms indicated and correspond all this data with wear and tear on carpet, passenger seat bolster, steering wheel.

Cross-Check the VIN with the thread on SAU "VINs Fasted" to see where that car came from in Japan. Check for rust if from north.

The car has been repainted in Midnight Purple III from what I can see. It looks like an early '96 (without the passenger airbag).

I stand corrected though.

I disagree with some of the posts above.

Don't think that just because a car has a low price that it is a lemon. The prices can be low for at least two totally different reasons. Either the car is a lemon, or the owner has had it for sale for a long time and has had very few offers. The market for imports has been depressed for the last two years; so prices have come down a lot on nearly all imports. There just aren't enough buyers out there. This means that a lot of the cheaper cars are actually good cars, and have probably been advertised for 6-12 months and have not been sold yet.

So, just find out that you think you like and take it to a good workshop (there's a few listed on SAU) and get it checked out. After that get it checked by the RTA.

The reality is that most imports would have been in an accident at some point, and most imports (if not all) have done many more km's than the odometer suggests. As long as any repairs have been done properly, you should be fine. Remember that it's a buyers market now (and has been for some time) so if you're smart about it, you can get a very good car for a very good price.

As for R33 GTR's, they're good cars IMO. With a few suspension tweaks they can handle VERY well, and the brakes are decent. They're very laggy though, and they're a bit more front heavy than the non-GTR skylines, so you'll have to get used to that. Overall they're an impressive car and are great bang for your bucks.

Edited by ras1983

I think as Messiah and Terry and the others have said it's going to be a pretty similar experience to your current GTS-t but with notably better looks, better power, better handling, slightly costlier insurance, slightly costlier maintenance.

The 33R will feel a little heavier and less nimble than a 32R which you could get for similar money (it also has a longer wheelbase), but as compared to just a normal FR, I just love the way the GTR exits corners. It really does act like a rear driver on turn-in, with just a little bit of help from the front end powering out of corners, without it scrubbing wide with 4WD understeer.

Just get any prospective purchases checked out properly as there is a lot of crap out there.

I disagree with some of the posts above.

Don't think that just because a car has a low price that it is a lemon. The prices can be low for at least two totally different reasons. Either the car is a lemon, or the owner has had it for sale for a long time and has had very few offers. The market for imports has been depressed for the last two years; so prices have come down a lot on nearly all imports. There just aren't enough buyers out there. This means that a lot of the cheaper cars are actually good cars, and have probably been advertised for 6-12 months and have not been sold yet.

So, just find out that you think you like and take it to a good workshop (there's a few listed on SAU) and get it checked out. After that get it checked by the RTA.

The reality is that most imports would have been in an accident at some point, and most imports (if not all) have done many more km's than the odometer suggests. As long as any repairs have been done properly, you should be fine. Remember that it's a buyers market now (and has been for some time) so if you're smart about it, you can get a very good car for a very good price.

As for R33 GTR's, they're good cars IMO. With a few suspension tweaks they can handle VERY well, and the brakes are decent. They're very laggy though, and they're a bit more front heavy than the non-GTR skylines, so you'll have to get used to that. Overall they're an impressive car and are great bang for your bucks.

Mate, I agree with everything you said but please read our comments properly as we did not suggest all 33gtrs below certain value (and at the time I was buying is around 25k, 1yr+ ago) are lemon but chances of getting a lemon is higher (and a lot of cases, owners of those cars dont know anything about the car and are cutting corners). I'm saying that because when I was hunting for mine, I had a look at 5 cars in QLD and out of the 5, 3 are crap (condition not very good or owner doesnt know anything about the car from talking to them), 1 is so-so and the other one is the one I got.

Like Terry said, do all the checks you need and talk to the owner. Normally you'll be able to pick up useful info by just speaking with them.

what should i look for when buying one has anyone seen the one on carsales for 25 k the one with harliquin paint cant spell that but yeah can someone tell me anything bout this has to many mods to explain check it out !!! gtr http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...6&silo=1011

I've seen that on carsale before and it does look really good for someone that wants all work done. I'd definitely give that a go.

Mate, I agree with everything you said but please read our comments properly as we did not suggest all 33gtrs below certain value (and at the time I was buying is around 25k, 1yr+ ago) are lemon but chances of getting a lemon is higher (and a lot of cases, owners of those cars dont know anything about the car and are cutting corners). I'm saying that because when I was hunting for mine, I had a look at 5 cars in QLD and out of the 5, 3 are crap (condition not very good or owner doesnt know anything about the car from talking to them), 1 is so-so and the other one is the one I got.

...

Apologies on my end, I misread your post. For some reason I thought it was another one of those "you get what you pay for" posts that were trying to justify sky high prices for cars.

what should i look for when buying one has anyone seen the one on carsales for 25 k the one with harliquin paint cant spell that but yeah can someone tell me anything bout this has to many mods to explain check it out !!! gtr http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...6&silo=1011

also keep in mind the rego sticker is from 2008 in the photo so its quite a old photo of the car (could be alittle more worn now-a-days), the dyno sheet is not in his name (the car might have been in afew hands so far) don't get me wrong, neither factor could be of any relevance to the car's condition, im just saying.

*realisation moment: qld rego colours differ from nsw :)

I looked at a 1995 R33 GTR V-Spec yesterday for $22,000. It seems to be in magnificent condition with 82,000km's on the clock. The chassis feels tight, suspension is good, engine is responsive and the panel+paint & interior is all in pretty darn good condition. Just need to get it compression tested and checked out.

So it is possible to find a good one at a low price :happy:

Apologies on my end, I misread your post. For some reason I thought it was another one of those "you get what you pay for" posts that were trying to justify sky high prices for cars.

You're alright mate. We're all just trying to help. The price you pay also depends on whats on the market and how desperately you wanted the car. If you're willing to wait, something good will come along. But if you want something now, just gotta pick something out there and work on your budget.

Its a bit like buying a quick pick ticket as oppose to those system ones if you know what I mean... Hahaha.

I looked at a 1995 R33 GTR V-Spec yesterday for $22,000. It seems to be in magnificent condition with 82,000km's on the clock. The chassis feels tight, suspension is good, engine is responsive and the panel+paint & interior is all in pretty darn good condition. Just need to get it compression tested and checked out.

So it is possible to find a good one at a low price :happy:

Try to get one thats got turbo done (not ceramic ones) if possible unless you want a dead stock car. This is the advise I gave to everyone thats looking for a GTR. I'm glad I got the N1 because that process is pretty costly (I only learn more about the car after owning one).

Scratch what i said above. That car had weld marks on both the front A-pillars, so it had been in some kind of accident and my guess is that it was rolled.

I have since found a 1996 Series 2 R33 GTR V-Spec in Midnight Purple which is almost stock (only modification is a cat-back exhaust). Panel + paint is pristine, am going to view it under the sun and drive it very soon :(

sorry for jumping but I have a problem and wanted to know about it (I've been trying to find information on concerning if the R33 has a MAP sensor to detect boost. So far we know it has two MAF sensor but is that all it needs. Anyone ????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
    • I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00   Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!
×
×
  • Create New...