Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had my R32 GTR Dynoed a couple of months ago. It had a pissy 139kW at all 4 wheels. The place that did this for me said that this was as per normal for a GTR. For a sum of approx $5000 they could easily get me 200Kw at the wheels.

Since this time I have heard that Standard GTR's should have approx 175Kw at the wheels. Can anyone confirm this????

Does anyone have any ideas as to why my car would be down so much in power. The only modifications are blow off valves and a HKS exhaust. The importer has done a dodgy job of installing a cat converter - but would this take away this much power.

Any advice on places to look would be very helpful. I don't want to go to a shop again as they seem to just want to get your money and rip you off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31756-r32-gtr-low-on-power/
Share on other sites

Have you driven other GTR's? Reason I'm asking is that before I got my car dynoed at 2 places and I got 2 very funny readings. Apparently I get more power at 4 wheels than 2 wheels???? Personally I don't live off dyno figures, the dyno is just a tuning tool.

You running bigger rims BTW? Mods? This also affects dyno figures.

You should be getting more power in 2WD mode than in 4WD mode. 139 @ 4 wheels sounds about right when compared to 175 @ 2 wheels. (My GTS4 runs 115 and 145).

Dodgy cat install could well be creating too much back pressure, which will adversely affect power.

If you want more power, check out the latest HPI (GT-R special edition #4) for some cheap yet effective power enhancements.

For a sum of approx $5000 they could easily get me 200Kw at the wheels.

Watch out for places that tell u that your car is running shit and then say for x amount of $$ we can make it do this as its very easy to bodge dyno figures.

Take it to another dyno and get it checked out

I haven't driven any other GTR's. But i have driven many other fast cars. There is no way my car wouold be able to cut a qtr mile time in the 13's. I think it would struggle to be under 15s.

Does anyone no a decent shop in Sydney I couls take my car too and get an honest assessment???

That dyno figure does not sound right. My 32 GTR is running at 160kw at all 4 without aftermarket exhaust or cat. Have been told that is poor too! A lot of car that come out of japan run to rich. What is fuel comsumption like? Should get at least 400 to 450 out of a tank. $5000 to get to 200kw is a joke! If you have a good exhaust, hiflow cat, HKS cam gears and a good tuner you should be able to make 200 to 250 with a bit of extra boost.

Call Ben (racepace motorsport) in Melb. to set you on the right track (0397629421). A 500kw at wheels R33 GTR is all the qualifications this guy needs!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Donut tried them out, they were fine as long as the bolt or nut wasn’t very tight 
    • It is a very complicated plastic tank. Sitting between the rear seats and the rear subframe. Requires a siphon venturi pump in the hat to suck the fuel from the passenger side to the driver side of the tank. The answer is probably prepping the tank very carefully to eliminate all fuel fumes, drilling any cracks to stop propagation, then plastic weld. I don't really see any other solution here. 
    • Does anyone know when your oil drops viscosity, if it is an issue? I imagine with tuned cars they will be overfueling more compared to a stock standard car and will thin out over time. 
    • anyone ever used these ? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/186214260439?_skw=socket+set&itmmeta=01JEG3TKV388ZXGP8N7CHNCQ45&hash=item2b5b3c1ed7:g:mhAAAOSwwB9lf~Xm&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkJwJeiNMm%2FsStacz%2BhjzBowaFnbNCowwe08vVGrW0FbesCs%2Flw%2FQYjDQLjKsuKvgysWT9%2F4b9AZUX3qLP5RDfFhtD8DxufvqBbyZrQAQXuG3h8%2BxxqhWhH8fIfU84eA9W7VIpxDNw9MWj9BdfkkMasYhcqOjTrcKwLyD3ftzZbaZb2Us7%2FFR1Q2kcT68ZYRU77%2F%2BtRr1qBS27BXxh%2FjWBQxhWyUcLlEFIb%2BITZPIKwxQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABlBMUOy96oP0ZA   I believe the idea being, the rods push back around the shape of whatever nut you put in there. Sounds pretty handy to just need to carry 1x socket in the car for 'most sizes'  but, theory vs reality, anyone tried them?
    • I'm not that familiar with R33 tanks. Plastic? Up behind the rear seat between the towers? Or under the boot floor like a normal car? It's the battery that's up between the towers isn't it? So, plastic tanks. Well, um. The obvious reco is plastic welding, which you'd only look at asking someone who's really good at to contemplate trying. The fuel contamination and grot is probably going to make it quite difficult though. Whether plastic or steel - the end of the crack will want to be drilled before any welding or sealing is done. Otherwise it will just continue to wander along until something bad happens. Steel tank? The obvious answer is drain, wash, purge with inert gas and drill the crack end and weld/braze/silver solder/whatever the guys who do that to fuel tanks recommend. I had a crack/hole/leak in the bottom of a Commodore tank (oe was it my ALFA? - can't remember) that I slammed some gorilla snot onto and it never leaked again. It worked surprisingly well. Or, it's time to fab a new tank.
×
×
  • Create New...