Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just a quick question:

My r34 gtt seems to struggle to start sometimes. if the headlights are on and i say stall at the lights, there's a moderate chance the car won't start, and the starter motor just makes that ticking noise. its happened many times that if the ignition is left on, and aircon, head unit, head lights etc are left off that the car just won't start.

even at its best the engine turns over many times before starting. it was particularly embarrassing when we had the wreckers round to take my grandmothers old, rusted '87 camry from the front yard. the thing had sat there for 2 years and was a write off due to rust, but with a new battery the wrecker started it on the second turnover of the starter motor!! immediately starting, i couldn't believe it lol.

anyways, an nrma guy came round last night to replace my brother's battery (the one that exploded in the other thread). he kindly checked my battery and alternator and both were fine.

so why is it that my battery is so keen to go flat? and why does the engine have to turn over so many times before it starts?

thanks guys, i appreciate any input!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317611-struggles-to-start/
Share on other sites

When my battery was nearing the end of its life, i found that it would die frequently. I had to jumpstart it if i didn't drive it every couple of days (i'm assuming due to alarm etc).

When i installed a new battery, it would start quicker, and hasn't died since.

if the battery is fine, then your starter motor may be tight and not turning as freely as it should. but i would still be looking at the battery. maybe even try putting the battery our of your brother's car in (if the terminals fit) and just try starting it.

the fact that it won't turn over with the lights on makes me think the battery is on it's last legs and coming into the colder months i think you will find that it might die.

maybe even try putting the battery our of your brother's car in (if the terminals fit) and just try starting it.

ooh, good idea. i'll try that when i get a chance.

the nrma guy said the battery had 3/4's of its life to go. not sure how he knew that but his analysis ended at: battery is fine, alternator is fine and engine is turning over quickly, not slowly hence not a battery problem.

with the lights, they're xenons so do they use much extra power?

thanks

starter motor bushes are stuffed and arcing, this will draw all your current away from the spark plugs etc and make it hard to start. Go see an auto sparky

thanks mate, will do. how much would a starter motor cost?

so, i guess that would explain the times when the engine turns many times but doesn't actually start, instead just draining the battery to the point where its flat?

No, 2-3 hrs max, disconnect the battery first, try to save your old gasket but a new one is handy. Unbolt the old one and install the new one.

But get it checked out first, I've only given you one reason and it could be wrong. I wouldn't be spending $2-300 on forum advice alone.

  • 4 weeks later...

yep, checked it out (took a while) and it's just the battery. its getting charged to the full but just losing it really quickly. connected it to the battery at the workshop and it started almost instantly a dozen times... not sure what the nrma guy meant, but it ended up being the easiest fix.

thanks for your help guys :ninja:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
    • Oh man what a deal.... Funny enough (well not really) I sold a car to some old dude (buying for his Daughter) on a Saturday, He asked if she could take the car now and pay me the money on Monday as the bank wasn't open. Needless to say I told them to come back with the cash or get f**ked! Luckily the money seemed to magically appear in his pocket a few minutes later, so it all ended well (for me).
    • Gucci bags tend to hold their value well, so someone’s definitely going to get a nice find here.
    • @Ozdavroz Not going to get a better deal than that. Cash up front and ongoing payments. 🤑
    • I wouldn't even move it like gTSBoy is saying. I'd seriously do what Duncan is saying. Unplug the injectors, and unplug the fuel pump.  Pull the spark plugs out. Have a look in quickly with a bore scope if you want. At most, you can't spray a bit of oil into the bores so there is lubricant in there while you crank it. (Don't fill it, as it's only going to enter the exhaust, or spit at you out the spark plugs holes. Before cranking the engine on the starter, after a 5 year sit I'd probably prime the oil system manually. Easiest way to do so is to look at buying an oil filter relocation block, fit it to the engine. The pressure line going into the engine on this block you can then shove into some sort of oil pump, or put it into a bottle, with that hose going to the bottom. Fill bottle up with oil. Now seal the bottle and add a compressed air line to the top of the bottle. Feed compressed air in, about 20psi will be PLENTY. This will pump oil through the motor. Be aware, it also means it will drain back to the sump, so make sure you don't end up over filling the motor Now bolt the old oil setup back on (or fully install the remote filter system).   This way you've at least pushed fresh oil everywhere, then you're letting the motor crank to then do its own oiling. Then I'd tap the key to make sure it can start to crank, if the motor free bumps, then I'd just hit the key and let it crank. After letting it crank and seeing you can get real engine oil pressure, put new spark plugs in, reconnect the fuel system electrics, and send it.   Additionally, you can look to remove the fuel feed line to the rail, and divert it to a tank so you can get the bottom of the tank shit out, and just incase there's some crud sitting anywhere that gets passed the fuel filter (or is already ahead of it).   If fuel injection at the injectors ends up appearing to be a problem, you can dump the injectors into an ultrasonic cleaner for a quick flush clean out. Note this isn't as good as new injectors, or getting them pro cleaned and flowed    
×
×
  • Create New...