Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20 Redtop Cas Trigger Wheel.

jbonez

By jbonez,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

jbonez Enthusiast

jbonez

Posted
Posted (edited)

Gday,

Just having trouble getting my ems 8860 to spark, its an rb25 headed rb30, the ecu is not triggering the coils even though they have active ign power & good earth & I can hear the injector pulsing. I thought I would look into my cas as it seemed like an odd unit (plug is different too r33), Checking the genuine part number the car has an r31 rb20 early red top crank angle sensor on it. (with the rectangular plug)

My question is is this cas / trigger wheel going to be any different to an r33 & is it advisable for me to use this or change it to the r33 unit or are they interchangeable

It recommends that nissan engines set the trigger wheel from 60btdc back to 5-15btdc, but the car previously had the older dualsport unit on it so I figured it would be allready done. But how would I go about doing this?

Any help would be great otherwise it maybe a job for someone else.

I cant check the timing because the ecu is not triggering the coils, I was thinking this could be way out, but the coils should still fire at some stage, it does sound pretty lumpy when I turn it over.

Also I have put a test light while cranking on the ecu trigger part of the plug on cylinder 1 & it didnt light up, its definately wired up in the correct order.

Really any help on adjustment to the cas trigger wheel if needing to be done would be great.

Sorry about the long post im not stressing out about it just eager to get it to fire and run.

Edited by jbonez
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317682-rb20-redtop-cas-trigger-wheel/
Share on other sites
jbonez Enthusiast

jbonez

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I ended up frying my coilpacks as far as I can tell from bad wiring, I have the cas working properly & its firing the injectors but nothing happening with the coils, I chucked my multimeter into earth & the ecu trigger on coilpack wiring 1 & it was fluctuating under ignition so its getting action, I also got a reading off the ign power & it was showing 12.8v so this is working also.

Looks like im up for some new coilpacks if anyone has some on the cheap brisbane - northside preferably that are working let me no.

The post above doesnt make much sense, obviously the cas' are interchangable other then plugs it was just the coils playing up the whole time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      First/Second Post

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • svenskalice
      First/Second Post

      By svenskalice · Posted

      Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • soviet_merlin
      Oem radio & steering wheel shroud for r33 (vic)

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • MBS206
      R34 GTT RB rough idle problem with weird RPM gauge fluctuations

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...