Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday,

Just having trouble getting my ems 8860 to spark, its an rb25 headed rb30, the ecu is not triggering the coils even though they have active ign power & good earth & I can hear the injector pulsing. I thought I would look into my cas as it seemed like an odd unit (plug is different too r33), Checking the genuine part number the car has an r31 rb20 early red top crank angle sensor on it. (with the rectangular plug)

My question is is this cas / trigger wheel going to be any different to an r33 & is it advisable for me to use this or change it to the r33 unit or are they interchangeable

It recommends that nissan engines set the trigger wheel from 60btdc back to 5-15btdc, but the car previously had the older dualsport unit on it so I figured it would be allready done. But how would I go about doing this?

Any help would be great otherwise it maybe a job for someone else.

I cant check the timing because the ecu is not triggering the coils, I was thinking this could be way out, but the coils should still fire at some stage, it does sound pretty lumpy when I turn it over.

Also I have put a test light while cranking on the ecu trigger part of the plug on cylinder 1 & it didnt light up, its definately wired up in the correct order.

Really any help on adjustment to the cas trigger wheel if needing to be done would be great.

Sorry about the long post im not stressing out about it just eager to get it to fire and run.

Edited by jbonez
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317682-rb20-redtop-cas-trigger-wheel/
Share on other sites

I ended up frying my coilpacks as far as I can tell from bad wiring, I have the cas working properly & its firing the injectors but nothing happening with the coils, I chucked my multimeter into earth & the ecu trigger on coilpack wiring 1 & it was fluctuating under ignition so its getting action, I also got a reading off the ign power & it was showing 12.8v so this is working also.

Looks like im up for some new coilpacks if anyone has some on the cheap brisbane - northside preferably that are working let me no.

The post above doesnt make much sense, obviously the cas' are interchangable other then plugs it was just the coils playing up the whole time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not wrong, but more than a few times I've heard of people running into issues where their injector characterization isn't quite right and that approach works for that specific configuration but once they switch over to a new set they discover a whole bunch of stuff wasn't set up correctly. It's slightly more annoying to reverse engineer the OEM MAF transfer function but you already have the sensor wired up to the factory harness so keeping it around for a few weeks more while you figure out the tune is easy enough. I've seen GM also use a combination of both MAF + MAP in their ECUs before, MAF is for steady state and a calculation of the cylinder VE to correct the base VE table, then in transients it uses that calculated VE + raw MAP to determine cylinder filling somehow.
    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
×
×
  • Create New...