Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Help Re; Diff Ratio's

wsln33
 Share

Recommended Posts

wsln33 Collaborator

wsln33

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, need some help.

I've got an R33 gtst which I converted to 3sp auto, still has the manual diff in it.

When I raced it the other week at heathcote, it was maxing out before the finish line.

How do i work out what I need to change my diff ratio's to, in order to gain a higher top speed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317720-need-help-re-diff-ratios/
Share on other sites
BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted

you use the moroso calculator, how far before the finish line? you can go a taller tyre if its only 50 meters.

Hey guys, need some help.

I've got an R33 gtst which I converted to 3sp auto, still has the manual diff in it.

When I raced it the other week at heathcote, it was maxing out before the finish line.

How do i work out what I need to change my diff ratio's to, in order to gain a higher top speed

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)

If it helps I'm running 3.9:1 gears out of an auto S13 (stock 33gtst is 4.1:1 I think) and it dropped my revs in 5th @ 100kmh by a bit over 500rpm (3000 down to 2500) but that's going from my stock 4.3:1 gears.

Edited by bubba

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sleepergm
      R32 vspec 2 rear badge

      By Sleepergm 路 Posted

      Hi all,   anyone know where I can pick one of these up for a reasonable price? I just resprayed my rear trunk due to fuel stain and my new muse spat install.    added a photo for some content 馃ぃ馃憤   thanks 
    • MBS206
      G'day!

      By MBS206 路 Posted

      Consider a 35 too...
    • dbm7
      One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing

      By dbm7 路 Posted

      He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 馃槂
    • GTSBoy
      One Headlight isn't working - Driver Side Fuse Keeps blowing

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 路 Posted

      Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
脳
脳
  • Create New...