Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fellas,

I had installed yesterday a dual stage boost controller. One side of the switch is off (So theoretically, should be running what ever the wastegate spring is set to - which is roughly 12PSI), and the on side of the switch my car runs 25PSI.

Now, when the boost switch is on, car runs a smooth 25 PSI the whole was, no drama what so ever.

However, when the switch is off, the boost controller starts making this funny rattling sound. Also, as I accelarate (while the switch is off), the boost spikes to 15PSI, goes down to about 11PSI, stays there until about 4,500 rpm, and then slowly creeps up to like 23 PSI.

Does anyone know why this may be?

I have an external wastegate tial 38mm. I've checked all the hoses, there are no leaks.

I remember before I had my Autronic SM4 unit (when I had the PFC), the car would run fine at 12PSI without a boost controller, not sure what's happening.

any help would be greatly appreciated.

CHeers

In all likeliness that 38mm gate is too small to pass all the exhaust gas of your 35/40....what exhaust manifold are you using? Where is the gate merged?

Well given he didn't have an issue with 12psi off the gate before...

I remember before I had my Autronic SM4 unit (when I had the PFC), the car would run fine at 12PSI without a boost controller

In all likeliness it has nothing to do with the gate.

People here have run 38mm gates with GT35's before without a problem. This instance shouldn't be any different.

What it does have to do with is the installation/type of "dual" stage controller being used as a good (and obvious) starting point.

So to just make sure I've read it right you've changed the following only:

1 - ECU

2 - Boost Controller installation

3 - Previously running off the gate the setup was completely fine

Thats correct yes?

If so i have some more questions.

1. How long as the VAC lines and so on?

2. What brand is the boost controller setup?

3. The "rattling" sound, do you also hear this when the boost controller is "ON"?

"rattling" that some people describe is when they can hear the solenoid actually working... so perhaps its not going totally "OFF".

Few AVC-R solenoids over the years i've been able to hear "rattling" when mounted close to the firewall/passenger side. Nothing wrong with them and working fine :ermm:

4. Have you removed the entire boost controller setup just for testings sake?

5. Is it 2nd hand? It could be fault product even... same thing applies if it's new as well of course

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ahh got it. Well maybe install a drain for the catch can somewhere down low and accessible like a wheel well too....
    • Before you blow your car up, have you checked you've made all the correct modifications to the wiring if you're still using the RB20DE loom?   Some things to look at: The pin used for the map sensor on the RB25DET, is the same pin used on the RB20DE for the Ring Gear Crankshaft Position Sensor, no idea what you've got it plugged into now. The turbo pressure control valve solenoid you're talking about on the RB25DET, the same pin is used for the Variable Air Intake Control Valve on the RB20DE.   The factory manual has the wiring pinouts in it for you to check everything. It also has the diagnostics process to read codes out. In addition, there's a great table that shows what sensors and what actuators not functioning will relate to which signals. And Nissan confirm the as everyone else has from experience, the Solenoid being disconnected won't cause a fuel cut. However, the turbo pressure sensor being missing / wrong, WILL cause a fuel cut. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Skyline%2FR34-Workshop-Manual-English.pdf
    • I've been hunting info on the G Series II - this is best I have found so far(Link below). Still waiting on the G35-1150 comp map, kind of very keen   So how do we go about getting precision on that little table of yours ?   https://turbosbytm.com/sites/default/files/product/technical-info/Garrett-G-Series-II-Product_Flyer 25 30 35_1.pdf  
    • yeah I get ~0.6L per session into the catch can. very ethanoly. It ends up overflowing out the breather of the catch can on circuit days too even with a 2.3L capacity catch can and I only drain out ~0.6L max. So every session I have to come in and drain the catch can, which is a hassle. So this is me cracking the shits and doing everything I can without removing the motor (back of head sump drain/breather and oil restrictors off the table). plans short term are: full length splash plates remove oem cam cover baffle add foam and reinstall at -10 or -12 AN fittings to the side of the cam covers down to the sump (luckily I already have fittings in the sump) Yes the ~340,000km unopened motor is probably not helping things
    • I'd use any fuel safe foam....mine went in 15 years and 15 rebuilds ago, still getting reused I'd have to say I don't understand swapping to studs to fit a particular baffle unless you are having a massive blowby issue, and even if you are addressing crankcase not head breathing is probably the next step.
×
×
  • Create New...