Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

so... anyone else here actually driven a NUR and a 33 GTS-t?

A NUR can punch out 300 without opening the engine or changing the turbos, a 33, for reliabilites sake, pretty much needs both. And cause someone will bring it up just to be a dick (Birds), I would suggest an oil cooler at least on the NUR... the injectors will be damn close to maxing too...

You'd be hard pressed finding a situation where the GTS-t beats the nur if they had the same power.

add 30k to it though and thats a different scenario. Really depends where you spend the money.

Quoted for truth!

I had driven one a few times (the same car).

Stock N1 Engine / N1 Turbo's (factory boost of 1.2 Bar = 17.4 PSi) / FMIC / Air Intake.

All was done was an APex'i Power FC / Full Turbo Back Exhaust and had adjustable Cam Gears.

Could have done without the Cam Gears, but was done when tuning.

306 kW's at the rear wheels, dyno'd at RE Customs.

lets stop this topic and turn it into a fail thread..... being led by the guy in this video

http://www.thatvideosite.com/video/we_just...oughwait_for_it

  • 2 weeks later...

hell, as the owner of a R34 GTT I weighed up the options of going hiflow, getting everything done to the max, shooting for 270-300RWKW and when I did the calculations and cost I've realised the best way to get this done and be happy about it in the future is to buy a nice R33 GTR :whistling:

33 with 30k spent on it will blow the pants off a stock gtr, even a nur, in every way except for traction off the line. a 33 with 10k spent on it will beat a stock gtr.

ive ran an r33 gtr with an exhaust upgrade and beat it with just a cooler and an exhaust and arc air box.

so i dont quite see how spending 30k on a pos r33 will be intelligent besides 40k and u could have an r34 gtr or evo 8/9

there would be plenty of 33's getting round with that sort of money spent on them. hell there are probably 32's with that sort of money spent on them. it might not have happened all in 1 hit, but over time it adds up.

start with a dead stock car.

new wheels: lets say 2k

exhaust (decent brand): 1500

cooler (again, decent): 1k

so there's 4.5k on very basic mods

then lets say he blows a motor, or decides he wants more power and wants a built motor to take it

ecu + tune: 2 to 3k

injectors: 1k (rounded up a bit there)

turbo: i dunno, lets say 3k with all water and oil fittings and manifold

engine rebuild: honestly don't know, but i'd guess about 6k including everything

clutch: 500

diff: 2k

so there's 19k. then if he decides to give the car a respray, new bodykit and put in some racing seats or retrim everything, it wouldn't take much to eat up the other 11k.

sure he could've bought something else for that money, but this will more than like blow the doors off it, and what if he doesn't like the shape of the 34 or the evos. everyone has their own taste in cars.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
    • Are you doing the work yourself or are you paying for labour? 
×
×
  • Create New...