Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey SAU Members,

Picked up my wifes GTT the other day.

Nice car, and drove very well.

We've owned quite a few R33's and R34's in our time, but the problem which confronts us is baffling.

Got the car home, put it into reverse, to reverse in the garage, and behold.........wouldn't engage properly.

It's like the engine is missing badly trying to give the car power, and failing.

All other forward gears are perfection.

Shut down to try and reset.

Tried again, same problem.

Almost like reverse is not quite engaging.

Anyone out there in the SAU world who has experienced this before any thoughts or advise?

Many thanks in advance.

(failing advice, it's down to MV Automatics.......................again!)

TR33GT

(Jim)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/317942-r34-gtt-no-reverse/
Share on other sites

Thanks Mad.

Our R34 Automatics specialist will be looking into it tomorrow.

Will keep up a running forum on the diagnosis and outcomes, so that SAU members may use the thread should they ever need to.

Regards

TR33GT

(Jim)

Thanks Lachlan.

Our R34 Automatics specialist will be looking into it tomorrow.

Will keep up a running forum on the diagnosis and outcomes, so that SAU members may use the thread should they ever need to.

Regards

TR33GT

(Jim)

Ok guys, here is the information.

Some imports with autotrans sit in the car yards in Jland for quite some time.

My wifes car was one of them.

Basically, moisture builds up in these transmissions when they just sit there, and over time, the quantity of moisture can be significant enough to cause clutch band damage.

When the car arrives here, it may seem perfectly ok, for a test drive, or an inspection.

The faults will start to occur when you start oputting the car to regular use.

The first thing to pull off is the autotrans filter.

If the filter is full of clutch material you have your answer, and it's a bad one.

If the clutch band material found is not burnt, then you know the problem has only just started, but the issue will remain.

If the clutch band material appears burnt, then you know the problem probably started in J.

Don't let these statements deter you from buying.

Just be more careful than me.

We'll see what the importer has to say about a rebuild or a replacement autotrans, cause this is what is needed.

TR33GT

(Jim)

  • 2 weeks later...
Well done, and good to see easy co-op from your importer!

I think we were lucky RUSH.

Nice to see an importer work so hard at getting this right, as you said.

TSI also added an additional 2 year warranty on the car, because they got this wrong.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky pick up Best to find these things before something horrible happened to the yoke flange thingies I would hate to think what would happen if it dropped the tailshaft  Hopefully the holes are not flogged out in the yokes and it was just the bolts that got munted  As for the hand brake.....ouch, look like the disc got rather hot, and I assume smokey, I recall when I had a front caliper seize on the Commodore, there was lots of smoke and the disc was glowing cherry red when I was able to eventually stop and have a look, and stopping a big heavy car, going down a big hill with some rather high RPM down shifts and some hand brake action is something that makes you think hard about life
    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that one side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
    • Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.
×
×
  • Create New...