Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 191
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Wow some big discrepancies there...!

4.6 with 170rwkw (albeit in a 32 which is lighter) and only 5.75 with 265rwkw in a 34?

A much heavier less powerful XR6T can easily do low 5s... I guess it all comes down to wheelspin in the skyline then...?

What is the best way to get a 34 to hold traction? Suspension, tyres?

I think i'll be running my rears down around 20psi when i get it back...

Soft spring rates, pineapples bushes set to maximum squat, zero negative camber or 1 degree postive camber if the car squats a lot (as it squats it will gain negative camber which in turn will return it to around zero), good tyres, not to low. With a setup like this (probably similar to what Paul had) is your best way for a good time. The problem is most of us know this, but don't actually do it and have low cars with aftermarket coilovers and average tyres :)

Well I can get my tyres 0 - 100 in around 2 seconds... Unfortunately the car itself takes a fair bit longer...

Even if I pull a perfect launch, I have a major issue of grabbing second and the car fries both rears... That's with 255 wide rears... And it also does it on semis...

an extra diff :)

Sorry, had to say it :(

I was actually planning on selling the GTT and getting a 34 GTR - was for sale for several months but there was no way I was getting what I wanted for it... and the changeover price for a good low km fairly stock 34 GTR was going to be well over 30 grand...

Got advised by many people that it wasn't worth it, and that I wouldn't be satisfied with a stock GTR anyway. Then to modify it would cost twice as much as the GTT etc etc...

Decided to stick with the GTT and do turbo etc so i guess i'll see what it's like at the end of the week when i get it back! Not like I'll probably ever have the chance to drive a 34 GTR to compare so I guess it probably doesn't matter!

I went the larger .82 housing on the 3070 hoping the boost response would be a bit more linear, and less likely to fry the tyres when it came on compared to the .63... Hopefully I was right... :P

I was actually planning on selling the GTT and getting a 34 GTR - was for sale for several months but there was no way I was getting what I wanted for it... and the changeover price for a good low km fairly stock 34 GTR was going to be well over 30 grand...

Got advised by many people that it wasn't worth it, and that I wouldn't be satisfied with a stock GTR anyway. Then to modify it would cost twice as much as the GTT etc etc...

Decided to stick with the GTT and do turbo etc so i guess i'll see what it's like at the end of the week when i get it back! Not like I'll probably ever have the chance to drive a 34 GTR to compare so I guess it probably doesn't matter!

I went the larger .82 housing on the 3070 hoping the boost response would be a bit more linear, and less likely to fry the tyres when it came on compared to the .63... Hopefully I was right... :)

I have a 32 GT-R and i love it to bits but some things you can only really enjoy in RWD :P

Plus the 34Gtt's are pretty sexy there are a few getting round here in bris that a sick !

Edited by Nee-san
Wow some big discrepancies there...!

4.6 with 170rwkw (albeit in a 32 which is lighter) and only 5.75 with 265rwkw in a 34?

A much heavier less powerful XR6T can easily do low 5s... I guess it all comes down to wheelspin in the skyline then...?

What is the best way to get a 34 to hold traction? Suspension, tyres?

I think i'll be running my rears down around 20psi when i get it back...

Those claimed 0-100 times for the xr6t would have been done by professionals who know how to launch that particular car when it was in testing, not your average joe. They also have a launch control system in them as well...

Yes, tyres and suspension play a fairly big role when it comes to launching, but it mainly comes down to the driver.

I was actually planning on selling the GTT and getting a 34 GTR - was for sale for several months but there was no way I was getting what I wanted for it... and the changeover price for a good low km fairly stock 34 GTR was going to be well over 30 grand...

Got advised by many people that it wasn't worth it, and that I wouldn't be satisfied with a stock GTR anyway. Then to modify it would cost twice as much as the GTT etc etc...

Decided to stick with the GTT and do turbo etc so i guess i'll see what it's like at the end of the week when i get it back! Not like I'll probably ever have the chance to drive a 34 GTR to compare so I guess it probably doesn't matter!

I went the larger .82 housing on the 3070 hoping the boost response would be a bit more linear, and less likely to fry the tyres when it came on compared to the .63... Hopefully I was right... :)

You did choose right, the power is quite linear, when i had my 3076 it was a lot easier to get the power down than when i had a apexi ax53b70 p25 because the apexi was so responsive it would just fry tyres the second you applied throttle

The best i have done so far is a around 5.8, thats with 236 rwkw's and zero traction. The main prob is traction. I have been beating by a mates standard wrx because i had no traction through 1st or 2nd. I know have semi slicks but haven't tried them out yet.

I'd say mid 4's if you are running decent rubber.

if you are struggling for traction consider

wider tyres - as wide as you can run cost effectively without scrubbing

better tyres - cost = more grip usually, pzeros are ace, my best 0 too 100 was with them

less pressure - 20psi for max grip - 40psi for normal drive and good economy

pineapple / diff cradle kit - prevent tramping on the diff / hopping

camber (make the wheels sit flat when you dump power, most will find inwards, reducing contact area)

tune the boost curve to give best boost vs traction - ie AVCR with gearjudge

I guess you could always try not putting your foot to the floor in the 250kw+ Skyline and feeding it in..? Guess that can be a hard ask in the heat of the moment. Will have to see how i go next weekend i suppose...!

I don't want to get beaten by a fairly standard skyline (or a bloody WRX) after spending the amount I just have for 250-300kw so i might just get some damn good tyres...! :P

I guess your usual inner-city drag doesn't start off with a full on launch though anyway, it's usually the feel each other out through the first half of first, then once you both know you are going to go put the power down... Am I right to assume that in that situation the 250-300kw Skyline is going to leave the 200kw one, or the SS / XR8 / WRX in the dust (obviously that is then taking the launch out of it...)?

^ LOL

better tyres - cost = more grip usually, pzeros are ace, my best 0 too 100 was with them

less pressure - 20psi for max grip - 40psi for normal drive and good economy

So 20psi in street tyres is about the best for traction? Might give it a try.

Hahaha yeah obviously. Might try them at 20psi and have a bit of practice launching to see how they hold up.

hey mate

20psi does indeed give noticably better traction but it's more for straight line stuff

just be careful in particular with running taller profile tyres at that pressure, especially if you plan to corner hard/kick the back-end out..

when I was younger I was a passenger in a VN SS running low rear tyre pressures for grip and the tyre rolled off the rim. wasn't pretty.

cheers,

-dave

Yeah definitely wouldn't be taking any high G corners with 20psi in them :P Like I said, wouldn't mind doing a bit of practice with launching. Definetely want to start getting the power down a lot better and earlier so semi slicks will definetely be on the agenda once mine are worn down.

Edited by PM-R33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok now I’m extremely jealous 
    • Exactly, when searching online they were a lot more common on S13s, but have seen quite a few of Skyline GTSs with them as well.
    • Thanks for the feedback!   “Hard to say what the extra connector is, it looks a bit like a coax type connector, so possibly a separate radio/GPS antenna, or even another camera input?  The V37 series (including the Q50), did go through a model refresh in 2020, since Australia didn't get any Q50s newer than 2019, we didn't get any of the refreshed models, so there could also be other unexpected problems to overcome to swap an older Q50 head unit into a new model V37.” I wonder if the extra plug out has anything to do with the factory optioned drive recorder, or traffic updates. It looks like these systems link to the main screens too, and probably rv37 specific over Q50 perhaps?   “Regarding the TV standards, I assume you are referring to the AV inputs?  I haven't ever tried to use them, Japan used a slightly modified version of the US NTSC system, and Australia uses PAL for composite video, that said, I wouldn't be surprised if a video input could work with either system.  That is mostly irrelevant here though, unless you plan to use those inputs for something?” The car has a Japanese TV in it already. For compliance it will be disconnected I think.  From what I read it only works when the handbrake is engaged anyways, but an aftermarket module can be installed for use with handbrake not applied. I was more so curious if there was a way to convert the NTSC to PAL for Australian operation. (I don’t need it but it’s cool to have the gadgets working) I have a BNR34 MFD I converted years ago to take PAL signal in my skyline and I linked it to the DVD Head unit for dual screen use. There was some write up on SAU back in the day how to do it and I can’t remember what was involved. So sorta curious what can be done here etc.  “So, Pac posted in the other thread about a box that plugs into the USB C and gives you full Android OS to run whatever modern/connected nav you want on the top screen, and it still automatically switches back to function” The Rv37 model comes with Apple play and Android, I think the Q50 doesn’t? so for me I can simply plug my phone into the usb or maybe blue tooth and that will become it’s own Nav that way independent  I’m happy for this option but again figured if there was a factory module can it be used or updated.  It had SD card slot for map updates so I could update it if I can get AUS specific maps on it,   That alibaba screen does look neat.  I’m not ready to bust a move just yet on it or something like to as my car can take my Apple iPhone already.  Also it doesn’t say it suits current model Rv37 skylines but the Q50, so perhaps it may not be skyline compatible.  I’d love to see one installed to know first hand or even see one in Q50 and hear some feedback, is it cheap Chinese junk!? Is it good? Does it suit RHD? Is it internet compatible like a normal tablet, and will it support all rv37 specific options like map zoom and steering wheel control and Bose system and so on.. I’m certainly intrigued and interested       I’ve done some digging around.; my local Nissan has a tech guy ex Infiniti and he wants to try trick the nav unit into think it’s q50 so it takes Aussie software or something,  When it arrives I will take it there and see what he can do.    Also seems we no longer have Nissan connect app available in Australia now. I’ve read my dealer books etc at home and it seems in Japan via that app you can purchase internet plans for the rv37 skyline to work through the screens inside. it seems that you can get traffic updates, it links to ETC, and I believe the in car specific recorders. This video then is all stored and visible via app. the Nissan connect app can also be used for remotely starting and controlling heaters etc from afar. Seems tv was also part of this. I’ll have a further look and play when it arrives. (I wonder if I can somehow get the Japan version of Nissan connect on my phone and use the remote start features etc) App Store won’t allow it as region specific- need configure that one   rv37 has multiple security options and packages.  Premium package comes with tilt sensor, remote and battery in siren, and can be bundled with auto mirror retract when locked, door jam illumination when opened on drivers side only, and also remote start.  Otherwise all modules can be purchased separately and still applied but easier to do as a whole and bundle for shared hardware and looms. (This is where Nissan Japan have advised the security part needs a dealer device to set up). Australia dealers have advised me Australian delivered models weren’t offered factory optioned  security systems so they don’t really know what’s entailed and what device.  Nissan Japan state that the other components like mirror retract and door lighting and remote start should still work on that package even if security doesn’t (however security still may).  I’m tempted to purchase and take the risk on this. There’s a possibility it can be made to work by piggybacking off signals etc instead too.     im curious if any Q50 owners have a factory optioned security system with these options or just a factory optioned system. If so I’d imagine the same device or process for installation should be needed meaning someone with Q50 dealer Experience may know. (Waiting on my local tech to get back to quiz further here prior to ordering)   and like q50 some of the v37 models have the scuff panel illumination and the footwel illumination too.  I see 400R wasn’t compatible according to Nissan diagrams.  I’m guessing it didn’t have a plug out for this. Would be a nice addition… I wonder if anyone has this in a rv37 or q50 and has a wiring diagram or booklet for installation to know where to piggyback the system too.  Seems to activated by door opening, so if imagine it would grab a door ajar signal and 12v and earth and probably ignition, but curious to know more as it’s pretty much the only factory option the 400R doesn’t take.     Thanks for your inputs. I’m finding so little information rv37 skyline specific as apposed to Q50 so trying to pioneer forwards and see can and can’t work and what options are there to help.  I’ll keep updated when the car is landed and ready to play with on these things in the hope it helps others and my journey can assist.  Appreciate any input and help.  Cheers 
    • Nah, if I need to fit people in a car I'll just use the Mrs car, the MX5 is perfect for what I need as a fun little sports car for fun on the street As for getting in and out of the MX5, I have no issues as I am a short arse who does lots of mobility training 🥷 If anything, I have been looking at Daihatsu Hi-Jets for a work hack, I helped one of my mates move some stuff with one recently that he picked up from Just Jap, it was a little ripper and plenty big enough for what we needed, it would also be super handy for me as I do alot of gardening, and plan on having some veggie patches and native gardens in the place I buy next year when I retire I did alot landscape gardening and growing veggies prior to my current job, and loved it, and that is a hobby that can keep me sane in my retirement, and as such, the little 300kg load capacity would be more than enough for what I need it to move around I have been looking at utes for just this purpose for a while now, and a near new 2024 Hi-Jet can be had for under $30k And I would rather look at a quirky little Hi-Jet than pretty much any other little ute, well, apart from a Brumby, I love the little Brumby, and weirdly have never owned one yet I was going to buy a heap of raffle tickets to try and win the Brumby that MCM built for Subaru Australia, but sadly I totally missed the raffle, I even filled in some form to be told when the raffle started so I could buy tickets, but to my dismay I was never contacted and found out I missed it when I was randomly googling Brumbys last year... #conspiracy  Maybe I should just buy a Brumby for a little "work hack".....LOL I use to be indecisive, but now I'm not sure
    • Well.... it's not just "de-oxygenating". If you do that you just have, most likely, ethane. So you still need to do a synthesis step to combine a number of ethanes/ethanols to make circa-8-chain hydrocarbons. And of course you don't want straight chain HCs, because n-octane actually has a negative octane rating (ie, it's worse even than the n-heptane which sets the zero on the octane scale!), so you have to do some tricky catalytic chemistry to synthesise branched HCs. That's all doable - but it doesn't come for free. And.... it starts with ethanol, which is an agricultural product, and there will almost certainly never be enough of that as a base stock to replace the liquid fuels that are in use. You really wouldn't want to be planning to be using any more ethanol for fuels than is currently already used (in E10, E85s, etc). And ideally you'd be looking to reduce such usage, as it is largely wasteful, particularly in the stupid-ole'US-of-A where the corn lobby has organised it so that it's actually primary production corn that is used to make a lot of the ethanol, not by-products and waste, like it is (mostly) elsewhere. So, what I said about needing free-ish energy probably still applies. True synth fuels would be made from H2 and CO2, in a near reversal of the combustion process. In fact, given that the H2 would be split from water first, it actually is a complete reversal of the combustion process. But...energy intensive. The human race burns something like 1 cubic MILE of crude oil, after it has been made into various fuels. Every year. That's a simply stupendous amount of energy. Just assume that the density is 900 kg/m3, and that the calorific value is 45 MJ/kg, then that is 165.9 x10^12 MJ of energy. Or more than 10^19 Joules. You get a maximum of 1 kJ/s per square meter solar radiation falling on the planet's surface, and so if you halve that for daylight, and halve it again for average weather (highly optimistic) and then take ~25% for the very best efficiency of solar panels, then you need about 85.7 billion square metres of solar panels to generate enough electricity to replace that liquid fuel energy consumption. Each panel is about 1m2. That's a rather large number of panels. We also burn about a cubic mile of coal. We also use hydroelectric power. We also use nuclear. We also use a number of other sources, both "renewable" and not. You can kind of ignore the renewable ones (except for hydro, because it will all end up getting subsumed into pumped hydro for storing other renewables, and so it won't be the standalone renewable that it originally was), so we end up needing a multiple of the ground area number that I just arrived at.
×
×
  • Create New...