Jump to content
SAU Community

Modified Skyline 0-100 Times

gwilkinson34
 Share

Recommended Posts

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted
No idea what my 0-100 was, but went to the drags with a mate in a well modded early shape WRX (1250ishkg), he was running 12.5, I was 12.7, his lauch was hold limiter, and side step it, with semi slicks. I was holding the limiter and slipping, with exhaust, pods and boost, stock suspension and cheap road tyres, we were both getting 1.6 60ft, check this shot off the mark... This is why stock suspension is so good down the quarter..

Dude do you have some meditation music on in the car because you look so calm and relaxed as your front wheels are lifting in the air!!! Hahahaha

  • Replies 191
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted (edited)
Harey: Did you get the pineapples done yesterday?

Did you notice any difference...?

Pineapples were fitted yesterday, the rear end feels tighter and better BUT still axle tramps like a WHORE!!!! ARGGHHHH!!!

I spoke to Chris and he said to bring it in for another look as it might be something like engine mounts or transmission mounts.

Sydney Kids list of axle tramp causes:

10% of the time it’s tyre pressures, the sidewall flexes and releases. Try pumping the tyres up and see if the axle tramp stops and/or gets less. done, made no difference

5% of the time it’s worn subframe bushes. Fitted pineapples and still axle tramps

25% of the time its drive shaft angle, the car is TOO LOW and the angle of the universal joints are winding up the drive shafts. If your car is lower than 345 mm centre of wheel to guard on the rear, then try raising it up. 350mm on the rear, so not that low.

60% of the time it’s incorrectly matched spring and shock damper rates. The rebound (extension) damping is not sufficient to control the oscillations of the springs. Standard springs with worn shocks get this problem. BRAND NEW aftermarket coil overs get this problem where the spring rate is too high for the shocks to control. I have brand new bilstein shocks all round

I am starting to run out of ideas!

Edited by Harey
gwilkinson34 Collaborator

gwilkinson34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mine seemed to have started doing it a little (nothing too bad) a while back, but after fitting my lowered king springs it has cured it... just spins away now...

Good luck finding a cause - if you do be sure to post it up in case anyone else is having the same issue.

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

i wouldnt be worried... chris will definately be able to work it out.

as for the pressure plate issue, exedy said that mine was the heavy heavy duty with a plate from one of their GTR models that has a higher clamping force

Granthem Mentor

Granthem

Posted
Posted
Pineapples were fitted yesterday, the rear end feels tighter and better BUT still axle tramps like a WHORE!!!! ARGGHHHH!!!

I spoke to Chris and he said to bring it in for another look as it might be something like engine mounts or transmission mounts.

Sydney Kids list of axle tramp causes:

10% of the time it’s tyre pressures, the sidewall flexes and releases. Try pumping the tyres up and see if the axle tramp stops and/or gets less. done, made no difference

5% of the time it’s worn subframe bushes. Fitted pineapples and still axle tramps

25% of the time its drive shaft angle, the car is TOO LOW and the angle of the universal joints are winding up the drive shafts. If your car is lower than 345 mm centre of wheel to guard on the rear, then try raising it up. 350mm on the rear, so not that low.

60% of the time it’s incorrectly matched spring and shock damper rates. The rebound (extension) damping is not sufficient to control the oscillations of the springs. Standard springs with worn shocks get this problem. BRAND NEW aftermarket coil overs get this problem where the spring rate is too high for the shocks to control. I have brand new bilstein shocks all round

I am starting to run out of ideas!

You just need more power to spin the rear wheels better :)

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted
You just need more power to spin the rear wheels better :/

Yup I agree but surely at some speed I will want traction :)

Anything on the edge of traction and it axle tramps harshly.

Cold tyres and 4k rpm clutch drop and no axle tramp hahaha

  • 4 weeks later...
Kinkstaah Grand Master

Kinkstaah

Posted
Posted
I dont get how you 170rwkw 33s are pulling 0-100 in sub 5's.

Thats porsche/ferarri/lambo territory. With double the power and similar weight. And they get loads of traction, the standard tires are wider then my cars 4 tires laid side by side :ermm:

I personally would take the gtech readings with a grain of salt

Reading this thread (Digging up threads = searching, har har!) I ended up feeling slightly curious.

If the R35 has 290 awkw and weighs 1740kg, and can get 3.5's you would think surely a 300rwkw GTT/GTST would be well under high 4's given they have the same power and weigh a couple of hundred k's lighter provided they don't lose traction

I am curious to read what Joeyjoejoe/hamish's car actually gets as he said it pulls 285rwkw and doesnt lose any traction in first...

Obviously its not only power and weight and traction that matter, would it simply be the extra (obviously a lot extra) low down and mid range torque to produce figures like 3.5 in a R35? Shorter gear ratio? What do 300-400awkw R32-33-34's get to 100kmh provided traction is no problem? Suppose it would depend massively on how responsive their relative setups are. 100% suspension based? Bit of both?

Curious minds want to know, and prefer to dig up old threads then generate new ones. :)

pipster11 Grand Master

pipster11

Posted
Posted

my stagea will do 5.65 and thats only on 10psi, no tune, clutch slipping a bit (manuel :bunny: ) and about 150 awkillerwasps

just a chirp from the rears and away you go

eventually the car will see a highflow, nisstune, new clutch and wider wheels (not really needed)

will be interesting to see how much the extra weight affects things

(stock weight is around 1650-1700kg)

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted (edited)
Reading this thread (Digging up threads = searching, har har!) I ended up feeling slightly curious.

If the R35 has 290 awkw and weighs 1740kg, and can get 3.5's you would think surely a 300rwkw GTT/GTST would be well under high 4's given they have the same power and weigh a couple of hundred k's lighter provided they don't lose traction

I am curious to read what Joeyjoejoe/hamish's car actually gets as he said it pulls 285rwkw and doesnt lose any traction in first...

Obviously its not only power and weight and traction that matter, would it simply be the extra (obviously a lot extra) low down and mid range torque to produce figures like 3.5 in a R35? Shorter gear ratio? What do 300-400awkw R32-33-34's get to 100kmh provided traction is no problem? Suppose it would depend massively on how responsive their relative setups are. 100% suspension based? Bit of both?

Curious minds want to know, and prefer to dig up old threads then generate new ones. :bunny:

I think the highlight here is "provided they don't lose traction".

Personally, I dont understand how Joeyjoejoe can get traction in 1st gear with 285rwkw with a gentle takeoff and then full throttle, I simply cant believe he can launch hard without traction problems on street tyres.

I have 190rwkw with 275 wide new Kumho KU36 tyres and if I launch with anymore than 3,500rpm its too much wheelspin (yes slipping the clutch so controlled launch).

This is compared to the R35 that I understand can launch as hard as you want with full traction. I cannot comment on R32/33/34 GTRs as i have no experience with them.

This is why I am not going to bother fitting a larger turbo to mine, instead will upgrade to a GTR/EVO first.

Edited by Harey
PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted
I have 190rwkw with 275 wide new Kumho KU36 tyres and if I launch with anymore than 3,500rpm its too much wheelspin (yes slipping the clutch so controlled launch).

Don't tell me that! I was hoping my next tyres would be 265 KU36's and hold first :blink:

Personally, I dont understand how Joeyjoejoe can get traction in 1st gear with 285rwkw with a gentle takeoff and then full throttle, I simply cant believe he can launch hard without traction problems on street tyres.

Nismo 1.5 way and Nitto tyres are the key factor for his setup I believe.

HEKT1K Grand Master

HEKT1K

Posted
Posted
I have 190rwkw with 275 wide new Kumho KU36 tyres and if I launch with anymore than 3,500rpm its too much wheelspin (yes slipping the clutch so controlled launch).

sif! are you sure there isn't some other problem with your setup? (not having a go at you, i just find that hard to believe.. 275 is huge!)

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted
Don't tell me that! I was hoping my next tyres would be 265 KU36's and hold first :blink:

Nismo 1.5 way and Nitto tyres are the key factor for his setup I believe.

I have only ever had the car with 275 KU36s so I cant comment on how much better they are with different tyres. It holds first on mine when they are heated up, I am only saying with a 4,000rpm launch they spin too much for a good 0-100 time.

Yeah the Nismo diff and Nitto tyres will obviously help a lot but I still struggle to comprehend them holding a 4,000rpm launch with 285rwkw. Joey please dont take this as an attack as I am new to skylines but its hard to comprehend for me. Would love to see it though :)

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted
sif! are you sure there isn't some other problem with your setup? (not having a go at you, i just find that hard to believe.. 275 is huge!)

Brand new bilsteins, king springs, pineapples, lower control arms, upper control arms. Launches and spins wheels smoothly. I have quite a grippy clutch so maybe thats contributing a bit as it doesnt allow me to slip it much??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Auto Electrician Workshop Recommendation for Reverse Camera Not Working CKV36 (SYD or WOL)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      It can't be some stupidly proprietary video signal coming out of it that only Nissan's can understand. Surely you can just find some generic camera to stuff in there and use hot melt glue/blu-tac/gaffer tape to hold it in place if need be?
    • JoVo
      Auto Electrician Workshop Recommendation for Reverse Camera Not Working CKV36 (SYD or WOL)

      By JoVo · Posted

      Update: Tunehouse looked into the problem and identified a wiring issue between the camera unit and the connector. They managed to get it working , but did warn me at some point it will stop working again. From their perspective it is unserviceable and will need replacement. They did some research and found that the new replacement camera would be Approx $1400 supply only (their fitting cost would be $190) . They did provide the part number (28442-JL05B) and a quick google of the part number shows that these are rather expensive brand new (seemingly no longer in manufacture) for the places that still have them in stock, with the used option potentially presenting  the same issue down the track at some unknown point. They are happy for me to supply the part so that they can fit it. Decisions, decisions... I can definitely recommend Tunehouse (thankyou Vee37!). Cost for the diagnosis was as quoted  ($190) , car was ready on time and communication was top notch. Their workshop is super clean and modern, and there was plenty of car candy parked out the front on the day I went.   Would definitely go back.   
    • r32-25t
      R32 Gtr Long Term Love, Now Project

      By r32-25t · Posted

      to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • S1_C34
      A31 Digital Climate Control

      By S1_C34 · Posted

      For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • MBS206
      Skid pans in/around Sydney?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
×
×
  • Create New...