Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys/girls, for some time iv been trying to findout why my car is boosting at 11.5 - 12psi

its an series 2 r34 gtt sedan sold to me by the importer as stock , ever since iv had it its booted hard and i thort that this was normal untill i drove my mates car which is stock , so i installed a psi gauge and noticed how high its boosting ,

i looked every were to see if it had a boost controller but none , i read a thred on here about earthing the solinoid to give it high boost all the time checked and its un touched , but i did earth my mates on to give him higher boost (and he loves it) but when i

was doing his car i noticed his actuator is larger than the on on my car so iv taken a photo to see if anyone here knows if this is inface an r33 actuator (iv read a post about people installing them but iv never seen a picture to tell the difference)

it does have "33" stamped in black ink so that why i think it is but sometimes that may mean someting else.

post-70954-1272157200_thumb.jpg

only mods on the car is a cat back 3" system

the reason im trying to find out is because i want to put a high flow split dump/back pipe on and an intercooler and need to be able to drop the boost back down because these things will up the boost past the turbos "safe" boosting level

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

No one can help ??? I hear people looking for and buying r33 actuators on here all the time surely someone knows how to tell what they look like ???

I didnt choose the boost this high it was already like it and i arr dont worry about it

Thanks mate so the stamped writing is the same ? This is good news . If thats the case id asume when i add the pipe and cooler i can just place a standard r34 actuator back on and ill be back to 10 or 11 psi

thanks again

well r33 actuators are 7psi acutaors, put it this way with the stock boost control it wont go higher than what it is now, why you worried about 11-12psi anyway its fine, sure your vaccum source for you boost gauge hasnt got a leak I found my r33 when just cat back and cooler boosting about 11-12 but it was a leak in the boost gauge when fixed that was about 9-10

just wondering, why do you want to drop the boost, only to add an fmic to lift the boost again? lol, this reminds me of another thread, deja vu? lol

yeah i have a similar boost, maybe even just above 12psi. but id always assumed it was the exhaust, and possible aggressive tune by previous owner. have you considered changing/high flowing your turbo? not sure on cost of those options tho

just wondering, why do you want to drop the boost, only to add an fmic to lift the boost again? lol, this reminds me of another thread, deja vu? lol

yeah i have a similar boost, maybe even just above 12psi. but id always assumed it was the exhaust, and possible aggressive tune by previous owner. have you considered changing/high flowing your turbo? not sure on cost of those options tho

Its a valid move to drop it only to raise it again with bolt-ons. A free flowing exhaust will premote better spool and response and a fmic will help prevent detonation due to high intake temuratures not to mentiong easier power with less boost as a result of cooler intake temps (intake air is more dense). just be carefull of R&R.

Also im pretty sure R34's run bout 10psi stock which might have somthething to do with having the larger OP6 turbine housing.

On a side note i would say that they respond to this better as the NEO cams have more aggressive lift (8.4mm in 8.7mm ex) due to its solid lifters.

Edited by RBceffy25
just wondering, why do you want to drop the boost, only to add an fmic to lift the boost again? lol, this reminds me of another thread, deja vu? lol

yeah i have a similar boost, maybe even just above 12psi. but id always assumed it was the exhaust, and possible aggressive tune by previous owner. have you considered changing/high flowing your turbo? not sure on cost of those options tho

i have considered upgrading the turbo but before doing that its always best to do the fmic and dump pipe so i figure ill do the main stuff to make the car run better then ill go for the perfomance upgrades,

what im thinking is if i put a dump pipe on it will raise the boost slightly so i want to be able to bring it back down as i dont need more than what im useing (for the moment anyway )

well r33 actuators are 7psi acutaors, put it this way with the stock boost control it wont go higher than what it is now, why you worried about 11-12psi anyway its fine, sure your vaccum source for you boost gauge hasnt got a leak I found my r33 when just cat back and cooler boosting about 11-12 but it was a leak in the boost gauge when fixed that was about 9-10

ill have a look but i only installed the psi guage about a month ago and the standard one before that was consistant with what i get now ,,

although i could always hear the spool up even before having a pod filter and i wondered if it was a leak but never found one (could have been the high boost )

i thort if you had a leak the guage wouldnt hold steady boost ,

also RBceffy25 when you say careful of R&R whats R&R stand for ??

ill have a look but i only installed the psi guage about a month ago and the standard one before that was consistant with what i get now ,,

although i could always hear the spool up even before having a pod filter and i wondered if it was a leak but never found one (could have been the high boost )

i thort if you had a leak the guage wouldnt hold steady boost ,

also RBceffy25 when you say careful of R&R whats R&R stand for ??

Rich and Retard. my understanding is that this occures when the intake temp is too cold (higher than standard boost with fmic usually the culprit) and the AFM defults to max air flow because the stock ecu believes ther is a large boost spike where there shouldnt be, dumps fuel, and retards the timing in order to produce less exhaust gasses to reduce boost. Only fix is turn down the boost, get aftermarket ecu or nisstune.

Anybody please feel free to correct me if im wrong in any way.

Cheers.

thanks for that ,

odd thing today i lost all my boost and power !!! the car just had nothing at all ??? the only way to fix it was to disconnect the battery and reconect and it was fine after that , does anyone know why that could happen ?

thanks for that ,

odd thing today i lost all my boost and power !!! the car just had nothing at all ??? the only way to fix it was to disconnect the battery and reconect and it was fine after that , does anyone know why that could happen ?

that sucks mate. did the malfunction indicator light come on on the dash?

cheers for the explanation above

that sucks mate. did the malfunction indicator light come on on the dash?

cheers for the explanation above

no nothing came up it just lost all revs and wouldnt boost over 5psi , it hasent happend since though ,

ok thanks for your help , so is there anyother why the car could be boosting higher ???

theres no controller and i checked for leaks and used another gauge to see if it was the gauge but my one is reading right !!!

is this something you would have to have a look at to know ??? is there anyone in the cranbourne area that may wanna have a look ???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I believe Unimog is the only vehicle that has it (from the manufacturer). I haven't seen aftermarket permanently connected kits, but I haven't looked either.
    • Ha ha ha, can't overthink when exhausted... Oh how I wish I had that power! I can be absolutely dead set shot, and my brain will still go "we need a good 3 or 4 hours to just think about everything and anything before you may sleep... My biggest thing is making sure I give myself enough sleep. I don't operate on even 7 hours of sleep! I attempt to give my body 9.5hours sleep a night to be able to function. I don't sleep the whole 9.5, but I need to make sure I offer a big window. I also take a single supplement, which is to help with long term health, and fighting inflammation, and I notice it helps massively. Especially me sleeping, and just less "achey" in the body. Have also kicked sugar, and gluten. A majority of people with ADHD don't go well with gluten. It causes a really interesting natural opioid overdose in the brain, which causes bodily issues and sensory issues.
    • Yeah that's what I meant, permanently connected not manual
    • Yep. But typically that's just run a hose down to the tyre while stationary.   Oh and the Unimog will automatically air up and air down tyres from the onboard computer for you too.
    • There was a good video somewhere, maybe Kurzgesagt that linked physical activity to ADHD/Anxiety/Insomnia etc. Basically the body WILL spend energy doing something if you don't spend it doing anything physical. It isn't fun, but I personally have noticed I've never been overthinky, or unable to sleep if I'm physically exhausted from doing a lot. The musings around it seem to indicate that this is one of the reasons/mechanism that physical activity improves mental health/wellbeing etc, by more or less not using that 'extra' energy to overthink, be anxious, inflammation, etc. There's also the fact that every obnoxious exerciser ever says it's great and helps which is extremely annoying. Like people who say the same thing about travel being the best thing ever. I mean, they clearly are, but blah. I started doing a LITTLE myself (think 3x15min per week) and honestly did notice the benefits, aiming at life quality when older. Which is sooner than you think. Getting something into your routine that you can actually make a routine has helped me at least. This post brought to you by procrastination between sets.
  • Create New...