Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

Im looking into possibly buying a Stagea NM35 by about August this year

What I was wondering is

What turbo actually fits the NM35?

I had read that its the same as the RB25 turbo, however I dont think this is the case with more research

Im mainly after any idea as to an option other than Hi flowwing, Is there one?

I realise they take a while to remove but I thought Id look @ getting a 2nd hand one & getting it rebuilt B4 the one on the car craps itself

Change it over in 1 go, ie exchange program

Are there any other options out there?

Cheers

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318148-stagea-nm35-turbochargers/
Share on other sites

Definitely not the same is an RB25 turbo.

If you are high flowing, talk to Andy65b, I believe he still has his blown unit.

As for a direct replacement, I have seen HKS GT30's put on (most common replacement in Japan) but they require minimum a new dump (which you will need anyway) and probably an exhaust manifold as well.

High flowing is the easiest and cheapest way for our turbo, no question due to space restrictions.

So many variables. Bush or Ball Bearing, how big do you want the wheels? 360 degree thrust washer? I guess anywhere from $1k to $2.5k.

Cam have you seen GT30's being fitted? I have only seen the GTRS's, got any pics?

Dont think Id want something too crazy

Just looking @ getting a good reliable cruiser between Sydney & Brisbane

Probably go ball bearing & steel rear impeller

That way it could take full 3" without any drama

What sort of boost could this then reliably take?

Looking @ around 1bar or so??

The M35's got different type of casting on the turbine but same 6 bolt dump pattern. The intake side is also different with a flange bolt.

The common profile we put in to those are the 2871RS 52T BB or Sleeve bearing CHRAs. will support about 240rwkws with supporting mods with stock sort of response.

Hi Mark

Yes, I still have the spare turbo that I can loan out on an exchange basis. (small cost)

The standard turbo has as standard 14-15psi you don't need to look too far from the standard turbo to be betting your aimed boost. The rear ceramic turbine is known to be a weakness and can fail. Most seem to get a bit more than the 100'000 before failing but some have failed earlier but also some of these cars have had dogey odometer readings.

I am running a full 3 inch exhaust from the stock turbo back and it is a great car to drive. fantastic on the open road and great response around town.

Cheers

Andy

No worries

Thanx for the offer Andy

Ill see how I go as Im not going to do anything till at least August I thiink & I have to see which way I go

Either Leggy Or Stag

Just really nead to drive both & work out for myself what really fits my needs.

I know everyone here willl say Stag, theres just a couple of things on both that worry me a little @ the moment

Other than the turbo, what worries are there? Very reliable in general. Have you driven them both?

You have to remember you are buying a cheap auction car that has probably been sold because there is maintenance required. I would hate to think what Nissan would charge for a turbo replacement over in Japan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just checking, when we are talking about high temp fluid, are we all referring to DOT 5.1? I haven't had any issues with changing it every 2-3 years. 
    • Yeah that is still true AFAIK.....good brake fluid should be changed annually because it absorbs water faster which is more often than most mechanics would do it. There are cheap tools that check water% in brake fluid if you all scientific about it. I for sure would (do) run good brake fluid in anything that even casually saw the track like Murray said; avoiding the risk of "exciting" fade is worth it
    • Well, back in the day..... "race" fluids, which were essentially only really "high temp" fluids, used to absorb water more readily. So they really needed to be changed more often anyway. The coincidence of that being directly necessary along with it being what racers would do as a matter of course was just fine.
    • Does the high temp fluid degrade any different over time compared to normal one? That's one thing I've always been wondering. Because a track car is going to get the fluid flushed probably way more often than every two years and will see less kilometers driven. I would think the requirements are different. I'm running Motul RBF 600 in mine. Was recommended by my mechanic before a trackday and I've stuck with it since. Hasn't seen the track since but I've kept buying and using it for servicing anyway.
    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks.    OH, a quick side question - would you use brake fluid from an opened container even if the lid has been on? Eg, if you have a bottle that you opened last time you flushed, it's been tightly closed, is it still good? 
×
×
  • Create New...