Jump to content
SAU Community

Minispool, Welded Or Lsd?


Recommended Posts

building an R31 rally car and cant decide between:

welding the diff - cheapest which is good but wont last the longest and requires more effort.

Minispool - heard alot about these and it seems like a good idea but is a little expensive but apparently very strong. probly leaning towards this

LSD - the best option as i do motorkhanas and khanacross but these are way too expensive to justify getting one for a $500 car...

would love to know al you guys thoughts and experience...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if your concidering a spool you might as well weld it. does exactly the same thing bar the fact a minispool is reversible if you change your mind.

Alot of people are quick to flame welded diffs, sure theyre not ideal, but anyone whos driven one knows theyre not unbearable, nor particularly dangerous (even in the wet, especially when adhering to speed limits) and will do exactly what you want it to do, every time. Drove an rx7 with a welded diff for a long time, no complaints.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

welded diff great ova single spinner, mini spool HEAPS better as u cant break them and lsd does the same thing but abit more better for grip as far as i know as u have 1 way, 1.5 and 2way more for drift

mini spools can be found cheap on ebay

Edited by Dan_J
Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you have a look on the r31skylineclub forums there is a tutorial for installing a minispool into a 31...

definately the best BFB option :)

a mechanical diff is great... but for a $500 car... and when minispools can be had for like $100 and are unbreakable.... sheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet

fwiw i have a weldy in my ke70 and have driven a 260rwkw rb25 r32 with one and have found NO problem with them ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it's your car in the end, but I welded diffs are crap, and I would just take it off the list of choices.

is this cos your freinds mates brother said that or you've had experience with it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, i come from a grip driver's point of view. I've driven one before, and it feels most like a two way diff, and my problem is central to the fact that in order to get the tires to stick with a 2 way, it requires a completely different manner of driving at higher speeds. I don't like having to mold everything I do in the car around the differential. For me a 1.5 is sufficient at this point in my life. If you are a drifter, then it's great, it makes breaking traction look like nothing at all. The downside is that, unless you are a competent welder by trade, you have to trust someone else's welding to not break. If it does let go, depending on what you are doing, you could cause a lot of damage with a uncontrollable car. Just my .02

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thats a better statement then saying welded diffs are shit cross it off your list.

agree for rallying i cant see why you would want a weldy at all be dangerous as all hell i rkn

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1.5 way for grip driving. locked diffs (spool or welded) don't handle well but with constant wheelspin on dirt they will be the cheaper option compared with the prospect of rebuilding a mechanical LSD when it wears out.

grip driving you definitely drive around the diff if it's locked, IMO it ruins the handling of a car and I wouldn't do it. Probably not quite as bad on dirt but you will get a lot of corner entry understeer near the limit. I suppose going into a tree forwards is better than sideways but i'd rather make it around the corner :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lots of good input.... im leaning toward a welded diff because its cheaper and i live with a boilermaker and work with a few 1st class welders that can TiG sweet so not hard to do it well and cheap and it seems no different to a minispool if you get it right except its not reversible.

the way i drive (pretty much drift)i dont think ill get much understeer but if i do, itll be bad.

anybody know any cheap places for minispools in perth? thier round $80 from ebay

Link to comment
Share on other sites

$500 is not worth speding on a diff for a car that has a pretty good chance of ending up in a tree (no offence, no comment on your driving). If its a rally only/street rarely, car the benefits of an LSD are not worth it.

Welded or minispool is the way to go. Horses for courses. Id vote with a minispool because its a diff designed to do a special job, as opposed to a welded diff which is a butchered item. That being said, they do exactly the same thing and will feel very similar. Its your call though, wont make much of a diff (pardon the pun). You may as well buy the item that does the job properly and buy a minispool.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ive got a weldy but cant say i go offroading last attempt destroyed my body kit >.<

but i can only imagine for rally driving it would be a bad idea you'll be sliding all over the place i would have thought traction is valuable in a timed rally style event?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah, im thinking minispool might be the go just because their abit stronger and a "bolt in" although i kinda like the 'butchering' option being a farmboy! and yeah i think the predictability would be good. about the traction issue... well im a bit of a drifter at heart and not winning at the moment so i might as well be having the most fun! but also the last event i was on two wheels round some of the bends because of ditches etc, and found myself spinning the inside wheel alot and losing a fair bit of traction because of it.... my question still remains though

Know any cheap minispools shops in perth? surely someones got one in perth....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personally I would lean towards welding it. You say you know a boilmaker, etc.. As long as the quality of weld is excellent theres no reason a welded diff can't be as strong as a minispool. I welded my mates diff in his R31 drift car & still going strong over 2 years later. Remove spider gears & just weld side gears to centre. Your choice but I would be going the free option...

Would personally spend the money on some new bearings & resetting

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i reckon youd havea prick of a time with a welded or mini spoll diff in rallying . coming down a straight at high speed with a bit of off cambered road slightly down hill off the throttle quikly into a corner and youll be off the track probably around a tree! lsd best option for rally way more control under braking on off throttle situations and control is what rallying is all about

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

eBay a BW78 Full Spool, better than minispool as your not spinning the heavy pos hemisphere.

I have a welded diff in my R31, filled it using my mig, its done many skids and is faultless

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm going to sound like a broken record now, PWM your pump and you won't have this issue. Unless you're a speed boat and on WOT for minutes on end.
    • FOR SALE I have for sale a set of Front (drivers-side and passenger-side) brake calipers and rotors. These came off my personal R33 GTST. These worked perfectly and will come with all associated hardware including: 1. Genuine Nissan R33 GTST Sumitomo Front Calipers (Drivers-Side and Passenger-Side) 2. DBA 4000 Series (T3) Front Rotors (Drivers-Side and Passenger-Side) These rotors have done approximately 8000kms. They are almost like brand new. 3.  2 x sets of brake pads including: -  1 x set of Bendix SRT pads with more than half pad left (for driver and passenger side fronts) these are still in the caliper. - 1 x set of Dixcel S-Type pads with almost the full pad left (for driver and passenger fronts) 4. Complete set of Caliper mounting bolts, Brake lines and associated brackets. The reason for sale is that I upgraded to Brembo Calipers and bigger rotors. PRICE: $700 for the lot. I am open to all reasonable offers. If shipping is needed, I can arrange at buyers expense.
    • Great info as usual. Thanks …    im already running a hks oil cooler. I will check my coolant mixture - that’s interesting.    I guess if the problem persists the next stage is to run datalogging but I will need to do this when the temperatures are crazy hot. Hong Kong is going thru a heat wave right now. 
    • Yes still have that .. what to keep the stock parts and plastic bits relatively stock looking as I started off with a pristine vspec specimen. Will resell her in a couple years. Is this stroud restrictive? 
    • I am wondering how much the plastic hat plays into this.  Both of mine melted more opposite the wire crimp. Tried the efihardware ones , double washers , better eye terminals.  The seat of the plastic ring inside the metal hole is very thin 1mm or so and you are putting through a threaded bolt, which can cut the plastic, won't take much for some conductivity to occur in a metal fuel hat that is earthed.  Amp draw of pump is going to be a variable here too.  many things that impact that. 
×
×
  • Create New...