Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

could not have said it better myself. having owned several signed vehicles myself, when it does come time to remove it you will have a $25K car that will be worth NOTHING due to the damage the removal process caused. think twice.

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Almost makes me wanna get the stanley knife out and do it!!!! I always wanted to matt black my car(s)....In fact, I was in the process of rolling on matt paint to my mx5 in colorbond "woodland grey"....kinda ran out of time when I got a job offer the 2nd day I bought all the paint....LOL..

If you ask me, matte black works on a few different cars:

1 - Old and crusty vehicles / track hacks

2 - New and expensive vehicles (think supercars, high end euros, etc)

Anything else (such as the V35) is a gamble. As mentioned you need the perfect set of wheels, in an agressive offset, and the ride height to match.. otherwise, i think its a bit like fitting one of those GTR look-alike front bumpers, if you know what i mean.

Good luck and make sure you post a write-up!

A little paranoia over the whole damage your paintwork trip. This process has been around for a while and is widely used on very expensive sports cars to protect the paintwork on track days. Emphasis here on getting the best quality product and having it proffesionally installed.

http://www.decentlyexposed.com.au/home/aut...CFYsvpAodHSArEw

Turned out pretty good - altho I accidentally fooked it up toward the end and then just got careless as you can see on the RHS coz I knew Id have to do it again. (note - its probably best not to attempt this whilst hungover.)

LHS looks good though.

Will be good to see how the paint holds up when I pull it off.

Before:

photo1bd.jpg

After:

photo2ji.jpg

photo3mb.jpg

oh well - its only like $20 for 2 meters so cant complain - looks good otherwise I think. time to order some more.

nice work dude!!

Lol there are a couple of imprefections but i guess thats expected, the big peel near the right exhaust pipe is fairly obvious i suggest you do a quick patch job on it! If i had done it i would have made a stencil first then cut it out, possiblly get a closer/smoother finish.

  • 2 weeks later...

Just go all carbon and be done with it, installed it on a few cars now but haven't had the chance to do a complete car yet. It is a lot tougher as well, we use it on a few cars including some Westfields.

The normal Wrap material is easier to use then the Carbon stuff so if doing a large body panel buy some normal wrap as also cheaper and see how you go at laying up before you spend a fortune on the Carbon stuff.

nwep6p.jpg

2gwdvti.jpg

30198_120549401303644_100000457544364_202722_5230098_n.jpg

31091_117994411559143_100000457544364_193544_5153656_n.jpg

31091_117994424892475_100000457544364_193546_2490280_n.jpg

31091_117994404892477_100000457544364_193542_24445_n.jpg

31091_117994418225809_100000457544364_193545_452296_n.jpg

that carbon weave looks fake cos it's got no stretch around edges like a real weave. but it's leagues better than the printed carbon vinyl I guess cos it's textured. shame it doesn't come with clearcoat and you can't spray it.

Carbon fibre can't stretch so I'm not sure how you arrived at your conclusion. The fact that there IS stretch around edges would give away it's vinyl. From a distance it doesn't look so bad but still no fan.

that carbon weave looks fake cos it's got no stretch around edges like a real weave. but it's leagues better than the printed carbon vinyl I guess cos it's textured. shame it doesn't come with clearcoat and you can't spray it.

Stretching is easy as per images below, we can clear coat it but if material moves the clear coat cracks and it just looks black at a distance.

It is an option over painting a whole car if a bonnet is faded wrap it instead of trying to blend it into whole car, stone chips can be a pain on some cars and this is a lot thicker then the clear over laminates used for stone chips. Also have dash parts that are damaged and cant replace cheaply, a few cracks sanded over and covered is a cheap option.

It isn't used just for a "Carbon Fibre Look" it is may as well use that pattern, could always use the wood grain pattern.

2yw6dft.jpg

idampf.jpg

4ky1i1.jpg

20qkpaq.jpg

main4.jpg

that woodgrain looks amazing!

would be such a bitch to line it all up tho

FYI I have developed a slight addiction to this cast vinyl, Im covering all my sliding doors on my balcony with black vinyl, and will prob do my wardrobes too lol

So many uses for this stuff, its great! :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...