Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have spoken to a few workshops about management and have been told OBVIOUSLY that the management they endorse is the best and everything else has faults.

One supplier in particular mentioned that WOLFs have startup issues, as in the car is hard to start. Now I am sure steve is going to answer this so here goes.

Could these startup rumours be as a result of a NON plugin wolf being installed by a person unfamiliar with wolfs which has caused this as they were inexperienced in tuning it.

Or can you expect this with a plugin wolf or any wolf for that matter. It seems a fairly significant issue so thats why I am leaning toward my first opinion to do with inexperience.

someone post up any feedback you have heard. NOT WHO YOU HEARD IT FROM

Thanks

Oh and if I take 2 wolfs is it any cheaper.

or maybe if others are looking to do this and have questions about it you could post up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/31834-wolf-plugin-question/
Share on other sites

I have a friend who had a wolf plug-in. He was commenting that it does take longer to start (cranking time) but I personally think with a bit more time tuning, it should be better.

I have spoken to a few workshops about management and have been told OBVIOUSLY that the management they endorse is the best and everything else has faults.  

 

One supplier in particular mentioned that WOLFs have startup issues, as in the car is hard to start. Now I am sure steve is going to answer this so here goes.  

 

Could these startup rumours be as a result of a NON plugin wolf being installed by a person unfamiliar with wolfs which has caused this as they were inexperienced in tuning it.  

 

Or can you expect this with a plugin wolf or any wolf for that matter. It seems a fairly significant issue so thats why I am leaning toward my first opinion to do with inexperience.  

 

someone post up any feedback you have heard. NOT WHO YOU HEARD IT FROM

 

 

Thanks

 

Oh and if I take 2 wolfs is it any cheaper.  

or maybe if others are looking to do this and have questions about it you could post up.

you'll find that with any after market ecu the tuning will show how well it starts idles runs etc, my experiences all be it minimal with the old v3's showed they wern't the best with cold starts, the v4 seems to be a lot better at it, but ive not actually been in a car running one as yet so i can't comment..

I had a few issues with cold starts and re-starting on my wolf3d v4 but its all been sorted now with a software update from wolf done by steve. I have noticed it does take a little more to turn over and start but since the update its started everytime firsttime and without having to give it any gas. For the money the wolf3d is hard to go past but with the soaring aussie dollar the powerfc is getting cheaper either one will do the job for a street car.

Steve's home computer is down at the moment, so if you don't mind I'll field this question on his behalf.

Cold start is fully tunable on the Wolf, and as such if you have a Wolf put into your car and leave it overnight with Steve then he'll have no worries in making it start well in the morning.

There has been one other issue, that a few people including Rob77 experienced, where the cranking signal wasn't being picked up first time, which meant a few cranks before the car fired into life, Wolf have since released an update which makes it start first time. This was only apparent in a couple cars but Wolf quickly worked to fix the problem.

Any of the other good ECU's should be able to coldstart without any issues, just really depends on the tuner.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
×
×
  • Create New...