Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Has anyone experienced their VDC turning off while driving ?

This has happened a couple of times to me and will come back on when I stop and restart the car.

Flicking VDC switch doesn't turn it back on while driving.

On the way home tonight it happened again this time showing me the handbrake light aswell, the handbrake was not down, after about 20 min the handbrake light went but VDC remained off, I could tell by the way the car handled and the old yellow 'slip light' never came on. But after I stopped at the servo, VDC came back on and the old slip light was back.

I would really like to know whats going on but don't know who to ask, I have a hunch that it something to do with some kind of sensor problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318371-vdc-turns-off-while-driving/
Share on other sites

It is probably your brake fluid level. Sometimes it looks like it is full, but open it up and it could be near the minimum level, at which point your VDC will start turning off, and sometimes your ABS too.

Thanks alot guys my car is actually due for new brakes next week, Fingers crossed , otherwise I'll try the OBDII cable.

due for brakes???

they didn't do them at compliance?

should have been done. most of them that I witnessed coming through had the brakes and rotors done. some people sidestepped this and I dare say if you looked at your tyres they would bethe age of your car unless you changed them recently.

to answer your original question - get the brakes looked at first.

Mine most certainly weren't done at compliance (pads nor rotors), as my pads are pretty shagged and my rotors are rooted at 60,000km with massive lips. ALL of the V35s I had looked at for sale at dealers in Sydney (that were all fresh imports) had massively lipped rotors, which was at odds at the reported 25,000km or so that each supposedly had.

  • 4 weeks later...
Hi,

Has anyone experienced their VDC turning off while driving ?

This has happened a couple of times to me and will come back on when I stop and restart the car.

Flicking VDC switch doesn't turn it back on while driving.

On the way home tonight it happened again this time showing me the handbrake light aswell, the handbrake was not down, after about 20 min the handbrake light went but VDC remained off, I could tell by the way the car handled and the old yellow 'slip light' never came on. But after I stopped at the servo, VDC came back on and the old slip light was back.

I would really like to know whats going on but don't know who to ask, I have a hunch that it something to do with some kind of sensor problem.

Hi Cruzen,

I'm experiencing the exact same thing, been checking the forum all night to see if there's a fix for this issue.

Did you find out what the problem was?

Mine most certainly weren't done at compliance (pads nor rotors), as my pads are pretty shagged and my rotors are rooted at 60,000km with massive lips. ALL of the V35s I had looked at for sale at dealers in Sydney (that were all fresh imports) had massively lipped rotors, which was at odds at the reported 25,000km or so that each supposedly had.

When I got my car back in Oct 08 55k on the clock it had new rubber but the front rotors were rooted as well with massive lips although the rears seemed ok, also my brake fluid was pretty low which would cause the brake warning light to come on during hard braking or if i was going down a super steep hill. Anyhow bought a new pair of slotted rotors for the front and had new pads fitted + new brake fluid and havent had the warning light come on

  • 2 weeks later...

I had somthing similar happen to me the other day, lost tractions for a second taking off at the lights as there was a slight crest, nothing major just like a half a second loss of tractions any way long story shot, the "VDC off" light and the "Slip" light came on stayed on and wouldnt go away untill i l restarted the car, now iv checked the Break fluid its good, my tyers are near new 90ish tred, but brakes im not to sure on.. any sujestion to why this happens?

and for future refference what Break fluid should i get and where is a good place to pick it up, i live in brisvagus

Cheers.

I had somthing similar happen to me the other day, lost tractions for a second taking off at the lights as there was a slight crest, nothing major just like a half a second loss of tractions any way long story shot, the "VDC off" light and the "Slip" light came on stayed on and wouldnt go away untill i l restarted the car, now iv checked the Break fluid its good, my tyers are near new 90ish tred, but brakes im not to sure on.. any sujestion to why this happens?

and for future refference what Break fluid should i get and where is a good place to pick it up, i live in brisvagus

Cheers.

Hi mate,

I just got Valvoline heavy duty dot 3 from Kmart, was on special at kmart only $5

Hi mate,

I just got Valvoline heavy duty dot 3 from Kmart, was on special at kmart only $5

I though Dot 4 was standard in our cars and Dot 5 is what people flush the system with because its better. Didn't think that dot 3 would be a great idea.

Not sure. Maybe some of the other guys can verify if its a good idea using Dot 3.

I though Dot 4 was standard in our cars and Dot 5 is what people flush the system with because its better. Didn't think that dot 3 would be a great idea.

Not sure. Maybe some of the other guys can verify if its a good idea using Dot 3.

The brake fluid resevoir I have in my car states to use dot 3 that's why I bought it..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Because all parts that are put into your papers usually are assigned a badging if they did not come with one. So other people can just check that badging to tell if it is the parts your papes outline. But my pipe has NOTHING on it whatsoever. No idea why this even passed as a Mines pipe to begin with. I see this going two ways: -nobody cares and it's a non-issue, but that is unlikely -the pipe will just have to be assigned a bagding, for sake of argument, a Mines logo, and the papers corrected accordingly If it interests you I will post what the actual solution ended up being. All I care about is that it has to sound equal length and nobody can screw me later on because of a pipe being illegal.
    • The fasteners to the pipe are not subject to TÜV I guess, if we really start putting nuts and bolts through technical tests I'm going to hang the people responsible and then myself. Usually on a modern-ish EU normed car, you would just replace the pipe. Because if you start hacking away at it and welding new pieces on the cops will definitely find a reason to tow your car. That is just how it is sadly. On old cars and imports with no clear "standard" stuff like that won't matter too much. Most cops or inspectors probably won't even really know what they are looking at. But there is experts for this stuff even among cops, and some of them know the rules to a T and even have extensive knowledge about many vehicles. For "just a pipe" to be legal it usually is included in a set of parts, like a complete intake kit or a full exhaust. For example my exhaust needs to pass a noise test, meaning they have a standardized test track with a set of instructions and they run the car through there 3x for an average noise value that is 75dB(a) at point x of the test track. If it's above that, fail. For a turbo setup to be put in your papers you have to do dyno runs, emissions testing etc. So quite costly
    • Would this not be the same for the exhaust you've posted up?  If your exhaust volume and emissions are fine, why does the brand of pipe matter? 
    • The issue is more the fact that there is inspectors that deal with japanese cars a lot and they might know what a real Mines pipe looks like. And then they're gonna get antsy and not pass your car. But I'd have to talk to one of them about this, because you know as well as me that it's just a damn pipe and it effectively doesn't do anything. As I need to have my GT2860s and my exhaust setup (and the increase in HP) TÜV'd anyways maybe they can just correct the entry in the papers or assign a badge to the front pipe. I'm no expert either though, will inquire about this.     Thanks for the insight. Not sure if having a custom made pipe is good or not. Will find out in due time I suppose. Would be kind of funny if this was made in Germany though.
    • See this is a really tricky topic as technically the same rules apply to all cars but for cars but there is a difference. If you want to modify a car like the Skyline which never existed here you have a bit more freedom as they do not adhere to EU specs anyway. Any modification you do has to be in dividually checked anyway so as long as one of the inspectors think it's ok and within the TÜV ruleset you can get stuff like a top secret rear diffuser put in your papers. Which frankly would need a shitload of tests and certificates for EU spec cars, like a 2010 BMW M3 for example. But if you DO run these tests and all tests come out ok (safety stuff for the most part) there is no problem running such a part legally. It's just way too expensive to do for a single person on one car. The most touchy parts are emissions related mods, like an exhaust, turbos, air intakes. If it makes noise or alters the carbon emissions it's essentially illegal until you prove it's not. Meaning it doesn't exceed noise limits or have worse carbon emissions. I'd say for hoses if you replace them same same it doesn't matter what material they are or what brand you use. Same for nuts and bolts usually, they won't go and specifically check that your water hoses and some bolts are 100% OEM parts, that is nonsense.
×
×
  • Create New...