Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

i just sold my r32 so i could get my hands on a stagea :D

im in WA and theres afew nice ones i could get HOWEVER they are only s1's.

there is one s2 going private but its pretty expencive compared to the ones over in SA etc.

my question is, is there thaaaaaat much difference between a s1 and an s2??

should i fly over to SA and drive one of these sweet looking rides home?

(im keen on the c34 type ones)

ANY imput will be helpful :)

thanks

Troy

Edited by Rated R 32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318490-buying-my-first-stagea/
Share on other sites

hey troy why don't you come have a chat with me i live in rocko and own the autech drivin around

hey Daniel,

u remember me from clubmotavate? i was in ur dads ute at motivation this year :(

i want a cruiser, auto is fine with me, but as i found with the 32, the older it gets the more stuff i hav to buy and replace that doesnt effect performance or looks (bushes, relays etc etc)

and i thought the s2 is newer, tiptronic, neo engine, bit nicer interior, would love to get one with a sunroof, good ac.

yea iv seen that replica autech one, think i might take a trip down to hav a look, is a bit of a bargin...but then im hesitant of getting a car thats been converted cos my 32 had a turbo conversion and it was just never right ya no.

cheers guys :)

you could almost try to import 1 they are cheaper now because it only 5% Import duty and it used to be 10% There is some savings to be had getting one from japan..You could have a look in oz too

nice cars go better than i thought

i have series 2 with dayz body kit lots of extras would not worry about leather that stuff gets hot in summer sun roof?if you want it

If I were buying one today would prefer S2 just because the ecu is able to take Nistune chip. However with a manual it doesn't really matter If I were in Aus I would have a look at MS180's Autech - its every bit the same as factory - started off with a C34 shell and put all the Autech bits from a genuine Autech.

hey guys,

yea i dont want leather interior, too much to take care of and yea would get welllll hot in summer lol

heres a link to one in SA id like

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...1&silo=1011

i think ill hold off from buying one till the rite one comes up. i dont wana rush it lol

importing would b cool butttt it takes months :S

like i said before im not too fussed about getting an auto, one of the resons i sold my 32 was cos i hav a bit of a drive to work and i cant b bothered worrying about clutching all morning lol

i will go look at that replica i think :)

yea iv seen that replica autech one, think i might take a trip down to hav a look, is a bit of a bargin...but then im hesitant of getting a car thats been converted cos my 32 had a turbo conversion and it was just never right ya no.

If done correctly, there should be no issues at all with a good conversion: mine has been converted for around 4.5 years now, and I have not had a single problem arise that could be attributed to the fact that the car was converted. There have been a few confusing parts issues, because I wasn't sure what I needed: original or rb26/R32/R33GTR-related, but it has never been anything to lose sleep over. For the money, I wouldn't even think twice: bargain!!

Plus, once you've tried a manual '26, you'll be converted yourself (pun intended): you wouldn't think of going auto '25 if they both demanded the same coin...

Just my 2 cents (another intended pun!)...

I would have a look at MS180's Autech - its every bit the same as factory - started off with a C34 shell and put all the Autech bits from a genuine Autech.

+1

From what I've read, the Autech shell had rust the car couldn't be complied so he switched everything to a local shell.

If your shopping for a C34 and not far, check this car out first.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...