Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yes you heard it right, I'm looking at selling off my original Series 2 Dayz front bar for the right price. If I can't get the right price, I'll repair it to replace the Blits Dolphin copy front bar on at the moment and sell that instead as I am still quite fond of the Dayz bar :)

As far as I can tell, apart from the scratches and dents, the 2 main repair jobs are the 2"-3" tear underneath on the right hand side and the mounting bit on the top right, both as circled in the piccys. Will sell with the spotlights, the air vent/scoop thing, and the little bit that came off the mounting bit to be repaired.

Will post interstate if you organise the courier/packaging/pickup etc.

PM me if you want a higher res image to be emailed.

Offers?

Edited by webng
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318515-adl-s2-dayz-front-bar-for-sale/
Share on other sites

You will need to post a price

You could do everyone a favor and con someone to make a mould for free, so then they could sell them

Do you have decent bodykit shops in Adelaide?

Just an idea

You will need to post a price

You could do everyone a favor and con someone to make a mould for free, so then they could sell them

Do you have decent bodykit shops in Adelaide?

Just an idea

Not sure what it's worth. Let's say an instant of $500.

Can the factory plastic bars be repaired?

It's plastic, they can do a lot with plastic as it has memory and they can fuse and weld it nowadays apparently.

Plastic bars can be repaired or modified - I removed no. plate surround and centre section and repaired a few cracks on mine.

Soldering iron to melt and weld, bit of fibreglass to support from rear and bog top, heat gun works well if modifying.

Just bought it, condition isn't that bad, few scratches, side bracket come off and a small ding, nothing unrepairable as its needs painting.

Very rarely do they come up for sale and it saves me damaging my Takero bar that sits 2 inches off the ground.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome Thomas! Sounds like you've made some progress. Are you able to drive it and enjoy it a bit now ? 
    • HUMVEE are fine in big open areas, but they are problematic on the street and tight areas As for reliability, some of the  US Army guys I have chatted with have said that when they were working they were fine, but, the do spend alot of time in workshops for multiple reasons, admittedly, they did get a hard time by the boys and girls who drove them I would definitely put them in the "buyer beware" category  They do look tough as nails though 
    • Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
×
×
  • Create New...