Jump to content
SAU Community

Can S2 Stagea Auto Box Handle 250rwkw?


Recommended Posts

Hi guys I am planning to make my Auto S2 Stagea mody to power between 230rwkw to 250rwkw, and I know what parts to get and I already start doing this now but until some of my friends who own WRX and 180sx they said my car will need to change the drive line or gearbox thing otherwise my car won't make pass 165rwkw. They said my 4wd system is same as wxr not strong , is this trust?? If I want to mody my S2 to 230rwkw then I will have to change the all the drive line , like gearbox or diff??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4WD will be fine, it's basically the same as the GTR 4WD system which can handle alot more than 250awkw. The auto box will handle it, I'm running around that power with a stock auto, my only issue is flaring in gearchanges under full load. I'm in the process of getting a shift kit to sort that out.

Edited by QWK32
Link to comment
Share on other sites

no, the AWD system is actually based on the GT4 which was NA - the only GTR based systems were in the Autech. Its kinda interesting really, the stagea was the ONLY RB25DET powered AWD system Nissan ever made...

Yes the gearbox will handle it, as will the diffs, transfer case etc, but to make sure I would recommend a thermo controlled trans oil cooler and a shift kit as a sensible precaution

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quite a few members towing race cars on car trailers ( around 2 tonnes). I have towed a fair bit of weight when auto ( auto is more convenient for towing - esp reversing).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys , thanks for the reply and respond. I really don't want to damage my gearbox or diff. I think I might to reduce the mody from 250rwkw to just 210rwkw. Thatshould be very safe power for my drive line.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, and the re4 is a much stronger box. M35 uses the electronic throttle to limit the torque so they could lighten the box a bit.

So mine S2 stagea autobox can hold 1000hp? then should be enought to handle 250rwkw as well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You will definately need a higher rated torque converter at that power. Mine sucked ass with the stock converter...

When mine was stock, my 60ft was 1.9. With the 30R+other mods and stock converter, it was 2.2.

Haven't run it yet with the higher stall, but feels ALOT better with it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Only once built. I guess any more than around 200kw you would need the shift kit fitted at a minimum.

where can i buy the shift kit for my S2 stagea? from ebay? or import monster?how is the shift kit look like? i am sorry i know nothing about car thing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A year of slogging through this bearing issue and finally fixed. What a nightmare. The oil pressure increase did not fix the problem. If you would like to read all the details in case you ever run into a similar issue visit my thread on Yellow Bullet. https://www.yellowbullet.com/threads/continuous-rod-bearing-issues.2689569/?post_id=74193031&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-74193031 In the end the rod bearings themselves were the issue. I had switched from ACL (first engine) to King because that was all we could get at the time and I thought nothing of it. Put the ACL's back in after a year of taking the pan off multiple times to change many things. Issue resolved. Can't believe it was just the bearings themselves all along. It has now been about two years since I drove the car on the street or had it at the track. At some point I had installed all solid and spherical bushings in the rear but had never aligned it since it just went on and off the dyno. Alignment was the first thing to do. (Old photo but same concept) Then I took the transmission out and went through it. This was my first gearset install and I've done about 15 since this one and learned a lot and wanted to apply some of these tweaks to mine. The aftermarket shift forks take very well to some modification and I wanted to make that change. Shifts are now super smooth and no having to find the gear. I also recut the 5th and reverse shift sleeves - always wanted to try this and see how well it works. It works very well! No grinds or having to do a second attempt going into reverse and 5th is perfect. Before During After Going back in In rummaging through my spare trans parts box I found the only parts I've ever broke on a stock trans; the 3-4 shift fork - twice!  
    • It also depends on gearbox ratio. Those drag cars running 7s passes aren't doing it on an overdrive gear ratio (probably). 1:1 is "fine", the critical RPM for a 50' single driveshaft in chromemoly is 6900rpm.... ....but when you shift into 5th and use 0:73 or 0:8 it all changes. Do you know their rear diff ratio? etc. That's the stuff that matters with regards to it. Whether it actually matters given your use application is also relevent. You may never get into those scenarios, like most ruined GTR's from Western Sydney don't :p
    • but for how long? would it handle a few laps around SMSP in anger? 
    • And over it. Need to stop it coming through the floor.
    • Is it running the standard ECU? some sort of data log might help understand where timing, AFRs etc are at.  If it is standard ECU something like Nissan Datascan would help
×
×
  • Create New...