Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i was woundering if it would be easier if i brought all the 100k kms service parts myself, and took it to a machanic around midland, or would it be easier getting them to get all the parts.. or is it hard to do it yourself, ive done it changes on other cars, just not my skyline before.. some info would be radddd,

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318544-100k-kms-service/
Share on other sites

hey guys,

i was woundering if it would be easier if i brought all the 100k kms service parts myself, and took it to a machanic around midland, or would it be easier getting them to get all the parts.. or is it hard to do it yourself, ive done it changes on other cars, just not my skyline before.. some info would be radddd,

thanks

Hey mate I just had my 100k service done not long ago and I sourced the parts myself. In most cases it will work out cheaper to buy the parts yourself, around $100. You'll still get slammed ~$550-$650 for labour though. Can't comment on doing it yourself because there was no way I was going to try it myself :)

i did my 100k service myself, i hate doing the same job twice so i changed everything

NSK tensioner bearing 130

NSK idler bearing 100 (both bearings sourced from CBC bearings in malaga, they are same quality as oem but if u get them through nissan they are way overpriced)

nissan cam seals 20 x 2

nissan crank seal 30

genuine nissan neo water pump 230

gates timing belt 85

i think thats all, pretty expensive service thats for sure! id hate to pay labour ontop of that...... lucky me :merli:

i strongly advise against doing it yourself unless you know what your doing and you are aware of the correct belt tension etc etc as you could see the end of your motor if belt goes bye bye lol

i also advise you to buy genuine parts, aftermarket oil seals and cheap bearings are a mechanics worst enemy

Edited by snozzle

I got my 100k kit from Kudos Motorsport (SAU business trader). It was around $470 delivered? The water pump, timing belt and seals were genuine but the tensioner and idler bearing were NSK (made in Japan). The kit doesn't come with auxillary belts along with your filters which you should probably do while your doing the major service.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...vi-t137554.html

Edited by Dani Boi
im coming up for my 100k service also, probably within the next few weeks or something, cbf doing it myself.. actually i think i have to get Autoworx to do it, otherwise i void my AWN warranty.

excuse my trollishness' for the below text.

you dont have to get us to do your service , you can service it anywhere you like .

you will need a proper tax invoice for the service

you cant do it yourself or get your mates to do it though

you dont have to get us to do your service , you can service it anywhere you like .

you will need a proper tax invoice for the service

you cant do it yourself or get your mates to do it though

Ah ok, thanks for clearing that up.

Besides i wouldnt get anyone else to touch my car other than you guys anyway. was just saying heh.

Did my 100km service in January, I had the guys at X-speed do all the work and source all the parts,..I mean they do this all the time and should know which parts work better than I do.

End result, just over $1000k including parts (water pump, timing belt, filters), labour, oil, coolant and a 28 point safety check. I'm quite happy with this service and would recommend Hanson and the guys for any service or repair work to any import.

I wouldn't bother getting the parts myself, they buy them in bulk and would get discounts. If you wanted a special part ask them.

You have to be soooooooooo bloody careful when you are putting the new timing belt on aswel, have to make sure everything lines up else if cam or anything is out even a little, can destroy shit/bend valves etc

I had mine done at Xspeed, cost me about $900 total for the full 100,000km service of an R32 GTR and that included all parts aswel.

I would be taking it to a workshop. Besides labour you wont save that much on parts going else where. Remember also you must be comparing apples with apples. An ebay kit is most likely going to be cheap parts. Workshops will generally give you the quality parts worth the bucks. A 100km service is important for the sake of a small fortune you should get a pro to take care of it.

your probally right, but id like to give it ago, worst thing i can do is blow the thing up isnt it :D all the other things are easy cept ive not done a RB25 timing belt before, done others, old things like a 69mini cooper -.-" haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
×
×
  • Create New...