Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

AHHHHHHHHHHH i think you will find, shell FTG (ferntree-gully) still sells V-power racing, almost certain (:S)

stopped using it 2 months ago, after i retuned baack to 98RON.

not 100% sure its still there, but they were the ONLY ones to have it when i needed it.

indeed because most of the "air" is not oxygen

Octain rating amongst other things is the oxygen content in fuel, the high the oxygen content the more complete the burn

the more complete the burn the more "perfect" the combustion

Theoretical all that will be given off should be h20

Of course this is not possable in real world what i was try to show was

I find it funny that a so called "better" higher quality fuel that will produce a more complete burn would be dis allowed to be used or sold because of tighter controlled emission regulations

unless of course its all a con

indeed because most of the "air" is not oxygen

Octain rating amongst other things is the oxygen content in fuel, the high the oxygen content the more complete the burn

the more complete the burn the more "perfect" the combustion

Theoretical all that will be given off should be h20

Of course this is not possable in real world what i was try to show was

I find it funny that a so called "better" higher quality fuel that will produce a more complete burn would be dis allowed to be used or sold because of tighter controlled emission regulations

unless of course its all a con

Ahhhhhhh, no.

First Octane rating is a number derived from a petrols ability to prevent knock. It has no direct correlation to the fuels formula. Once a fuel is tested it's knock prevention is compared to varying concotions of iso-octane and heptane then given a RON based on what % of iso-octane is required to mimik the fuels knock prevention ability.

Secondly, when you combine a hydroCARBON with oxygen you will get water AND a carbon derivitive, ie. Carbon Monoxide. Always. Without fail. Everytime. It's basic chemistry.

AHHHHHHHHHHH i think you will find, shell FTG (ferntree-gully) still sells V-power racing, almost certain (:S)

stopped using it 2 months ago, after i retuned baack to 98RON.

not 100% sure its still there, but they were the ONLY ones to have it when i needed it.

Um, if that's the case then they are breaking the law because V-Power Racing has not been made for nearly 3 years, and if they still have stock of it in their tanks (highly doubt it) it is going to be that old and very very bad quality fuel with all sorts of nasties in it. They will more than likely have Vpower 98 in there and if it's still selling for 5c per L more than normal Vpower they are false advertising as there is no more VPower Racing. You'll probably find it's the same price as normal VPower and that will be because thats what is being pumped out, they ,ay still have the signs up and the bowser cards in place saying Racing but I can assure you 99% that it's not Racing, the 1% is for the 3 year old stale left over (which again is unlikely because it would destroy your engine and would be taking up tank space that they could use for other fuels)

There's a slight difference in how they refine their fuels. You'll also notice, shells fuel is actually red and BP is actually blue/green. I might be speaking through my ARSE with the colours, but that's what I noticed on my fuel cap after a period of time...

There was some test done somewhere regarding the rating and additives they use, shell came up top.

I love Shell in my car but every bike I've ever owned friggin' hated it.

My NSR seized twice (both times were the only times I ever put Optimax in it...coincidence?), my XR would cough and splutter and also seized although I had run Optimax previously and my blade would cough and fart and carry on until about 7000rpm when it would clear it's throat and go like the clappers.

Conclusion?

Optimax -

Car = yes!

Bike = no!

There's a slight difference in how they refine their fuels. You'll also notice, shells fuel is actually red and BP is actually blue/green. I might be speaking through my ARSE with the colours, but that's what I noticed on my fuel cap after a period of time...

There was some test done somewhere regarding the rating and additives they use, shell came up top.

I could have sworn the colour coding was there for a different reason.

I know leaded race fuels have a red colour and unleaded has blue or something along those lines

Back to back testing resulting in about 3-5 deg of timing retard required across the range from switching from BP ultimate to Shell V-power on my mates race car (SR20 putting out about 240rwkw about 20rwkw drop in power with Shell V-power).

He is now running ultra high octane race fuel now I think about 113ron and picked up another 40rwkw over BP ultimate different days different dynos different tuner.

I could have sworn the colour coding was there for a different reason.

I know leaded race fuels have a red colour and unleaded has blue or something along those lines

fuels are actually clear, they put colouring in them for a safety reason, basically so you don't accidentally drink it lol! I'm pretty much sure the smell would put you off if you tried! unless you live in NT! Oh no I didn't lol

i use to not care when i first got car what i used. as in brand of petrol but after testing different ones out i cannot stand any shell petrol. makes any of my cars ive had run like absolute shit. only and ever use BP Ultimate 98. cars run awesome on it even had 1 car tuned to it as im happy with results

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
    • Damn you’ve done well, definitely snapping necks.
    • Great weekend and event. Open fire at the caravan park, perfect weather all day and a great feed and a couple of drinks at at awesome country pub.
×
×
  • Create New...