Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

AHHHHHHHHHHH i think you will find, shell FTG (ferntree-gully) still sells V-power racing, almost certain (:S)

stopped using it 2 months ago, after i retuned baack to 98RON.

not 100% sure its still there, but they were the ONLY ones to have it when i needed it.

indeed because most of the "air" is not oxygen

Octain rating amongst other things is the oxygen content in fuel, the high the oxygen content the more complete the burn

the more complete the burn the more "perfect" the combustion

Theoretical all that will be given off should be h20

Of course this is not possable in real world what i was try to show was

I find it funny that a so called "better" higher quality fuel that will produce a more complete burn would be dis allowed to be used or sold because of tighter controlled emission regulations

unless of course its all a con

indeed because most of the "air" is not oxygen

Octain rating amongst other things is the oxygen content in fuel, the high the oxygen content the more complete the burn

the more complete the burn the more "perfect" the combustion

Theoretical all that will be given off should be h20

Of course this is not possable in real world what i was try to show was

I find it funny that a so called "better" higher quality fuel that will produce a more complete burn would be dis allowed to be used or sold because of tighter controlled emission regulations

unless of course its all a con

Ahhhhhhh, no.

First Octane rating is a number derived from a petrols ability to prevent knock. It has no direct correlation to the fuels formula. Once a fuel is tested it's knock prevention is compared to varying concotions of iso-octane and heptane then given a RON based on what % of iso-octane is required to mimik the fuels knock prevention ability.

Secondly, when you combine a hydroCARBON with oxygen you will get water AND a carbon derivitive, ie. Carbon Monoxide. Always. Without fail. Everytime. It's basic chemistry.

AHHHHHHHHHHH i think you will find, shell FTG (ferntree-gully) still sells V-power racing, almost certain (:S)

stopped using it 2 months ago, after i retuned baack to 98RON.

not 100% sure its still there, but they were the ONLY ones to have it when i needed it.

Um, if that's the case then they are breaking the law because V-Power Racing has not been made for nearly 3 years, and if they still have stock of it in their tanks (highly doubt it) it is going to be that old and very very bad quality fuel with all sorts of nasties in it. They will more than likely have Vpower 98 in there and if it's still selling for 5c per L more than normal Vpower they are false advertising as there is no more VPower Racing. You'll probably find it's the same price as normal VPower and that will be because thats what is being pumped out, they ,ay still have the signs up and the bowser cards in place saying Racing but I can assure you 99% that it's not Racing, the 1% is for the 3 year old stale left over (which again is unlikely because it would destroy your engine and would be taking up tank space that they could use for other fuels)

There's a slight difference in how they refine their fuels. You'll also notice, shells fuel is actually red and BP is actually blue/green. I might be speaking through my ARSE with the colours, but that's what I noticed on my fuel cap after a period of time...

There was some test done somewhere regarding the rating and additives they use, shell came up top.

I love Shell in my car but every bike I've ever owned friggin' hated it.

My NSR seized twice (both times were the only times I ever put Optimax in it...coincidence?), my XR would cough and splutter and also seized although I had run Optimax previously and my blade would cough and fart and carry on until about 7000rpm when it would clear it's throat and go like the clappers.

Conclusion?

Optimax -

Car = yes!

Bike = no!

There's a slight difference in how they refine their fuels. You'll also notice, shells fuel is actually red and BP is actually blue/green. I might be speaking through my ARSE with the colours, but that's what I noticed on my fuel cap after a period of time...

There was some test done somewhere regarding the rating and additives they use, shell came up top.

I could have sworn the colour coding was there for a different reason.

I know leaded race fuels have a red colour and unleaded has blue or something along those lines

Back to back testing resulting in about 3-5 deg of timing retard required across the range from switching from BP ultimate to Shell V-power on my mates race car (SR20 putting out about 240rwkw about 20rwkw drop in power with Shell V-power).

He is now running ultra high octane race fuel now I think about 113ron and picked up another 40rwkw over BP ultimate different days different dynos different tuner.

I could have sworn the colour coding was there for a different reason.

I know leaded race fuels have a red colour and unleaded has blue or something along those lines

fuels are actually clear, they put colouring in them for a safety reason, basically so you don't accidentally drink it lol! I'm pretty much sure the smell would put you off if you tried! unless you live in NT! Oh no I didn't lol

i use to not care when i first got car what i used. as in brand of petrol but after testing different ones out i cannot stand any shell petrol. makes any of my cars ive had run like absolute shit. only and ever use BP Ultimate 98. cars run awesome on it even had 1 car tuned to it as im happy with results

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The 32 still sits untouched with the broken gearbox. So a little off topic but not worth having a whole new thread. The daily starlet has gotten back on the road after 9 months. Suspected blown HeadGasket at a track day resulted in a bit of scope creep rebuild. The motor got a full tear down, pressure testing, machined for MLS HG, ARP head bolts, new bearings, all new seals etc also noticed some fatigue on the stock exhaust manifold so obviously the answer was a steam pipe manifold and highflow turbo. The exhaust was also looking tired with some rust holes. So I got a slightly over kill system made up consisting of Vibrant resonator and muffler with a highflow cat. The new highflow turbo had a larger inlet so instead of adapting the old intake got a case of the might as wells and had a nicer alloy intake made After the run in was finished i bought a (probably considered retro/vintage) EBC becasue "might as well"
    • Pretty stout result. How much boost? Anything left in it?
    • Just dropped the car off at MX5 Mania to install the intake plenum and give it a little retune  My impatience hates the waiting game 
    • SAMSONAS      Just saying      U know and we know U wanna     Just a matter of time....
    • This is kind of what I expected given the use case. I took my liners out for track days too.... It makes me consider just getting a diffuser and not bothering with the arch liners themselves. For the most part I would like to avoid water/mud/jank splashing up from under the car onto the bottom of the engine, lines, wiring, etc etc. (but brake ducts are cool too). Especially given this post on SAU here: Where it's implied you have to cut them because the actual tub is different? Which is pretty damn worrying because that is where the liners rub in a GTR with wider wheels... I definitely won't want to pay $2000 for plastic then cut them up. It also means said wider wheels rub on the tub in a GTT? FML. That said, I have found some evidence someone ran a 295/30/18 without scrubbing these liners. (and by extension.. the tub).
×
×
  • Create New...