Modifying My R34 Gt-t

[TUF250]

Ok the time has come to start modifying my R34 GT-T. I have done alot of reading through this site and just want to confirm what I have read and ask a few questions i couldnt find answers to.

Note, my car is an R34 1998 GT-T 4 door auto

Basically im looking for a good street package, I want it to be responsive as possible (so will keep the stock turbo) but still gain as much midrange to top eng power as I can. It has to be a compromise as its a daily unfortunately. I was imagining 200-220rwkw is realistic through the auto retaining/gaining as much responsiveness as possible

What combos do people reckon without going over the top?

- 3inch cat backs seem to be the way to go, is it worth replacing the dump pipe for that level? (are they a big restriction on these?)

- is it worth getting a high flow cat for this power level?

- I was thinking of keeping the standard airbox (as i want as much cold air as possible) and just getting a high flow filter in the box

- Intercooler, i dont want to cut and sheet metal so what options do i have here?

- boost T to maybe 10-12psi? is this the way to go, or will the computer reject this and I need a retune?

- is it worth getting the car retuned for these mods?

what do people think of this combo, open to any thoughts, experiences and suggestions as this is my first turbo car and my first skyline

also depending on what you read these engines produce 187 or 206kw? whats the factory output on the 1998 auto gt-ts?

thanks!

[.:: GimpS-R34 ::.]

1. turbo back is better for flow/restrictive.. yes it will help

2. Same with high flow cat..

3. Pod vs. Panel.. doesnt matter.. just stick to high flow panel if you prefer

4. Can get FMIC with standard return pipes still.. ARC etc

5. Adjusting the boost will need a retune.. Can either get SAFC or Nistune etc.. 10-12 psi is considered a safe boost level but still are just ceramic wheels..

6.yes tune it for the mods

[RusH_]

+1 to what Craig said

I've read a few people hitting R&R when running around 12psi without an ecu upgrade (just something to keep in mind)

With regards to the FMIC, you will still need to cut some parts of your front bar to fit it nicely, and as above, a return flow will prove to be easiest to install and uses the factory piping in the engine bay, so no new holes required

Justjap.com are selling a few return flow type cooler kits, one being the JJR kit and also a Blitz return flow kit

[TUF250]

thansk for the replies, will a r33 gts-t echaust bolt staight onto a 4door r34 gt-t? reason i ask if my friend just told me he is wrecking out his skyline and has a 3inch system he is getting rid of complete with dump pipe

[mad082]

i think the sedans may be a bit longer than the coupes. not sure about 33/34 compatiability. dump pipe, etc will fit, but it will come down to where the mounts are for the rear section of the muffler. few mins with a tape measure will give you a much better idea

[TUF250]

good point thanks for that, i just did some research and discovered they have a 55mm shorter wheel base so it probably wont bolt in. thanks!

next question, I believe in keeping my cars regualy serviced so the car is getting a major as part of the modification list. As I am new to the skyline scene I need some advice/recommendations on a few things:

- I will be using the drift filters from autobarn, I am interested in peoples experiences with oils. I was trying to decide between the 10W40 synthetic nulon and the 5W30 synthetic castrol edge? i have heard the edge can make the engine a bit noisy? is this true or rubbish? keen to hear what people recommend

- thoughts on K&N panel filters? was keen to keep the stock airbox and CAI for police reasons and legality, also I want to keep as much cold air going in as possible

- how often should you change the timing belts on these engines?

- what is the recommended change period for fuel filters?

- I like using the iridium spark plugs, the part number in the catalouge recommends the long life platinum NGK ones, are these a good way to go?

thanks!

[SKYLiNE 34]

Hey mate.

- Castrol Edge is a little bit fake I reckon, better to go with Mobil 1, probably cost less too.

- With the air filter, if you want to keep the stock box, I would recommend a HKS air filter they come in what looks like a green sponge type layout, they are good from my experience.

- Timing belt as usual is every 100,000 km

- I think around every 5000 km is good to change oil and plugs if you want.

- From what I've heard copper plugs are the most responsive especially if you re-gap them.

Hope it helps

[mad082]

for spark plugs i would recommend the NGK copper plugs, part number BCPR6ES. you should get 10,000kms out of them (change them at every second oil change). works out cheaper than either the iridiums or platinums in the long run, and if you have decent coil packs then you may get 15,000 or even 20,000kms out of them. i pulled mine out after 10,000kms and they weren't very worn at all.

as for oil, every person you ask will give you a different opinion. if you can afford $100 or whatever mobil1 is these days then use it. it also comes down to what you are using the car for, what mods it has and how hard you drive. if you are just using it as a daily driver and it is pretty much stock and you don't give it a hard time then you can get away with using cheaper oils. just go with something either semi synthetic or a basic fully synthetic oil if it is just a daily driver for normal driving.

K&n panel filters are fine.

fuel filters every 20,000kms would be more than enough. not sure what the exact service interval is. probably much more than 20,000kms though.

timing belt is 100,000kms, and do water pump at the same time, as well as all the timing belt tensioners (don't just do the belt)

[clip14]

220rwkw is running close to the limit of the stock turbo when put through a manual drivetrain. the auto drivetrain will result in more power loss, so you're unlikely to hit this figure using the stock turbo.

bear in mind you can get a reasonably mild highflow to the stock turbo which will allow you to maintain stock response while supporting 250rwkw+.

with all that being said, if you are set on keeping the stock turbo, if you want to hit your power limits, you're going to have to ensure that you address all supporting mods.

get a full turbo back exhaust including high flow cat, get an electronic boost controller, get a full retune (not just a piggyback system).

get a decent intercooler, you can get some brand name intercoolers which allow you to retain most of the stock piping.