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R32 Gtr Rear Diff Wtb Canberra

Tony Brown
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Tony Brown Enthusiast

Tony Brown

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Hi all, it turns out that I need a rear diff for my 1990 R32 GTR, do they come in different ratios or are they all 4.11?

Prefer local but interstate is fine if prepared to freight.

My rear diff is making what sounds like front pinion bearing noise, no change under acceleration or backoff, just increases with road speed.

Is this common with GTR's? I thought they had a very strong drivetrain, but I guess no diff is invincible.

If anyone has one for sale, either pm, reply or call me (Tony) on 0421985762.

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BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted

r you sure its not a wheel bearing? the noise should change on decel if its the diff.

Hi all, it turns out that I need a rear diff for my 1990 R32 GTR, do they come in different ratios or are they all 4.11?

Prefer local but interstate is fine if prepared to freight.

My rear diff is making what sounds like front pinion bearing noise, no change under acceleration or backoff, just increases with road speed.

Is this common with GTR's? I thought they had a very strong drivetrain, but I guess no diff is invincible.

If anyone has one for sale, either pm, reply or call me (Tony) on 0421985762.

Tony Brown Enthusiast

Tony Brown

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I was always taught that diff noise will only change if it affects the crown wheel and pinion and bearings, the pinion is not directly load affected, but if that is incorrect I am always open to logical explanations.

I have had the car on four stands and there is no play in either of the wheel bearings and neither of them feel rough, although both wheels are fairly hard to rotate, what I mean is that they don't turn freely like other LSD diffs I have owned, is this normal for GTR's?

I first noticed this when I had to push the car in neutral (handbrake off) and noticed how hard it was, certainly more rolling resistance than I thought was normal.

Is this a clue?

I have also had the wheels and calipers off and checked handbrake adjustment and they seem fine.

Could it be a centre bearing?

Tony Brown Enthusiast

Tony Brown

Posted
  • Author
Posted

First of all, thanks for the replies and PM's, and your right Trozzle, I'm keen to stay with the original ratio because I don't want to change other ratios to match, my first post was probably a little confusing, the reason I mentioned ratios was to make sure that I didn't buy the wrong diff for my car, not to look at options for different ratios.

I now believe all R32 GTR's have a 4.111 to 1 ratio diffs so it was just my lack of knowledge on the subject that caused me to ask.

Regards, Tony

JD_R33 Proficient

JD_R33

Posted
Posted

If it was me, i'd be going to one of the transmission places to get it checked out first, there's a couple in Phillip I think.

If it turns out to be the diff you are probably better off getting yours rebuilt, swapping your old diff for someone else's old diff probably isn't the greatest idea.

Cheers,

JD

Tony Brown Enthusiast

Tony Brown

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Agreed JD, I would prefer to have it rebuilt by a professional as well, but if I can buy a good s/h diff then I can send it to a "reputable" rebuilder to have it checked/rebuilt properly, so that the whole process only has to happen once rather than fit a s/h diff only to find out that it is farked and have to pull it out again, but obviously I want to start with a diff that does not require a full rebuild if possible.

It is easy to say "just get it rebuilt" but I have a problem with the "open cheque book" approach to owning a GTR.

This is a 20 year old car and a perfectly good 20 year old s/h diff is ok with me as long as I ensure that its ok before swapping it.

I am a big believer in "if it aint broke, dont fix it" way of doing things and since this car is not driven hard, a good checked s/h diff will do just fine.

Having said all this, I will also make sure that it is in fact the diff making the noise before pulling it out, other things such as centre bearing, wheel bearings (fairly sure this is not the cause) are eliminated by a reputable mechanic first.

It just seems to me that it is the diff, but I could be wrong.

Regards, Tony

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