Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

The girl's stag has developed a nice grinding sound that only appears when braking. I would say that it makes that it makes the sound, for about 10% of the wheel's revolution, when braking anywhere from about 40k's and below.

It also has a bit of a shudder at speed and braking down hills from speed (speed being about 100km/hr btw) almost shakes the car into oblivion, unless you get off the brakes and then start braking again. I know the alignment is pretty average and I've got it booked in for that, but I'm still trying to diagnose the grinding, hence the post.

I'm trying to figure out what the options are and so far I've got:

CV joint - :merli:

Wheel bearing - unlikely?

A braking component - pads aren't down to the wear markers yet I don't think, if they are, they're not making any noise. Haven't measured width of rotors yet (not sure what acceptable widths are on stags anyway)

Is there anything I've missed? I've had a look under the car and can't see any signs of rubbing or interference. We are running 235's on 19x9's all round and the fronts clear the shocks under all conditions. I haven't pulled the boot back to have a look inside yet (can that be done without damaging the boot?) and I can't see anything wrong with the brake assembly (again, haven't pulled anything apart).

It's going in for it's 100k service soon (hopefully next couple of weeks) too, so I'm praying that it'll hold out that long. I don't have the time or work area to play with it :(

Also, I've done a search and nothing yet is coming up with the same symptoms. The closest thing I've found, turned out to be a wheel bearing, but that was a constant grinding noise.

Any suggestions you've got will be greatly appreciated guys :P

Cheers,

Josh

Warped disk? Perhaps a bolt loose?

All the Japanese imported cars I have owned needed new disks when they came over due to being warped. They all seemed to get worse when hot and were less noticeable cold.

As for the grinding, if there are no loose bolts it could be a rock stuck under the caliper.

lol by the sounds of it the pads are passed the wear markers.....

check your break pads, i could be worn low on the inside pad so it might look normal from the outside......

turn the wheel all the way to full look and see if the inside of the rotor looks marked.

Can source cheap pads for S2 stagea now, I paid $44 - Cant remember p/n thou!

Just machine disc's at same time if over minimum thickness.

Still could be wheel bearing but hope not.

P.s. Hows things going in SA for you both?

Thanks for the replies guys. I'll see what i can get in the way of new pads and rotors and report back if anyone's interested.

Can source cheap pads for S2 stagea now, I paid $44 - Cant remember p/n thou!

Just machine disc's at same time if over minimum thickness.

Still could be wheel bearing but hope not.

P.s. Hows things going in SA for you both?

things are alright now that we both have jobs, haha, was looking a little shaky for a while. just starting to get back on our feet now. the trip down was eventful. first an oil leak, then split cv boots... put an extra day on the trip down. can't say i recommend the brisbane to adelaide drive. it sounds like a great idea at first, then you get into your second day and it's a little tedious... how'd you go with that ca? did you strip it back?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Convert to dual filament bulb   FWIW, it will look odd - I dare say a bit dumb as it looks like your flasher relay has shit the bed.
    • If the RB20 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
×
×
  • Create New...