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damaged turbo wheel ? R33 gtst

cameron

By cameron,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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cameron Mentor

cameron

Posted
Posted

Hi,

My bro just got his new line and we were intrested to see what the turbo looked like to compare to other bros turbo.

and we noticed that the fins look different and are bent and chiped ?

is this a problem ? do we need a new turbo ?

their doesnt seem to to be and problem when driving, all though it sounds different when it spools up you can hardely hear it, it doesnt make the whistling sounds like the pod but its a different sounds ?

Thanks,

by the way its on a 95' gtst

(i'll post pics later tonight)

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R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Well if you go two turbos off the same series motor.

then you can bet your dollar it's a bit damaged.

chipped is not all that good.

Fins can have a 'bent' look. it might just be the wheel.

I dunno what the differences are between the two though... series I vs II.

but i think there was something a tad different.

either way for a new one you only looking at $400

Jebu Apprentice

Jebu

Posted
Posted

hi

I think I might be having a problem with my turbo too...

It looks ok the last time I checked it..

but at higher speeds.. about 200km/h + there's a really loud shhhhhhhhhhh sound... quite unnatural...

not sure whether something's wrong with the turbo or the blow off valve...

I'm running on standard turbos and turbosmart BOV..

anyone experienced this before?

thanks

stimps Collaborator

stimps

Posted
Posted

That turbo has ingested something, but if it still goes, then keep using it, unless you really want to upgrade. These turbos are generally, not very servicable or rebiuldable. But they are quite tuff. It could keep working fine for years to come. Look at it this way, you only found the damage, coz you looked....you didnt hear any strange noises or see oil or anything.

You can if you want, buy a new comp wheel and get it fitted and balanced, but Personally I woudlnt bother, the time and money isnt worth the problem if the wheel fails. I doubt you would notice the drop in power at all.

I have been playing (that should read, trying to fix:P) a couple of rb25det turbos, and have found the following info....

If you break the seal plate, you can't get a new one (oh no!) If you own a lathe, you can make a new one (doing that now actually)

The turbine is not able to be serperated from the shaft, and is balanced as a single unit

The comp wheel is balance as a single unit, and therefore, you can generally swap wheels with not too much hassle (if you dont balance them, you will get a shorter turbo life, but generally, you will get away with it)

IF you pull apart totally the bearings, (they are not captive bearings) the balls will fall out and roll across the floor, into the drain, cracks in the concrete etc etc, bye bye turbo....

If you can feel shaft play sideways or end ways, the bearings are worn, but if your lucky, you can still have some more room to tap in the centre peice of the comp wheel side bearing (under that damn seal plate im afraid, hard to take them out without breaking them) and get rid of that play, and get another 100 000 kays out of a unit.

Worn bearings and side play and end play in the shaft leads to misalignment of the seals, which of course leads to oil leaks, smoke, etc....

stimps Collaborator

stimps

Posted
Posted

by the way, I picked up a second hand turbo for $200 on the weekend and fitted it to my twin turbo rb25dett VL and it fixed my problem.

So as you can see, spending money at a turbo shop rebiulding a stock rb25det turbo is not a financially rewarding thing to do. Its better to just source a second hand one.

I had two good turbos, untill one started leaking oil into the air intake. Upon trying to fix that turbo, i broke the seal plate. Bought a buggered turbo for $70 and broke the seal plate in that trying to get it out too! :P (DOH)

Bought another good turbo for $200 and fitted it and no worries.

Now im making two new seal plates, using two new o rings, and setting up the bearings in those two turbos again, to see if i can get those turbos operational again. If not, ill turf them:P

stimps Collaborator

stimps

Posted
Posted

black smoke is fuel not oil.

why should it boost higher than standard boost? you got a bleed valve hooked up?

If you have and its refusing to boost very high, it could be any number of alot of other things. I've never seen a turbo that is in such a state that it wont boost higher than standard boost, unless its really stuffed (turbine hitting houseing, seized bearings, etc)

They seem to either work fine, or dont.

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