R32 Starts To Die When Idling?

[Lizzy89]

this didnt use to be a big problem but now has gotten worse.

i would be driving normal and then stop at the stop lights and then all of a sudden the revs usually once u put it in neutral the revs jump to like 1500rpm and then they come down to about 1000rpm and then it just holds itself there, mine doesnt, it jumps up as normal to 1500 and then it goes down to 1000, then lower lower lower, until it hits 0 and then switches off.

everything i stop somewhere idling i have to keep revving the car to keep the revs up or else it i left it it would just die out. this happens when i stop quick when i quickly shift into neutral whilst driving it jumps to 1500 then bang down to 0, but if i stop realllyy slowing and slow down before i go in neutral it doesnt have a big affect, only when i stop quickly or normally, i dont wanna have to slow down and then creep 500 metres before a stop light i dont know whats going on with my car!!!

i thought it was the air, but i checked everything all the air pipes the little cords that go to everything, its all locked in and even if it was a air problem the car would continuously revving up and down at every stop this only happens 80% of the time, but its a shit wen it happens on a hill lol

what do you think it could be?

[scotty boi]

Hey mate just wondering if you have a blow off valve, because i had this problem and spent s##t loads trying to find the problem. Changed mine back to stock runs like a dream.

[Lizzy89]

Hey mate just wondering if you have a blow off valve, because i had this problem and spent s##t loads trying to find the problem. Changed mine back to stock runs like a dream.

hey yeah i do, but the car was fine before with the blow off valve, and then it just started dying like one in a week then twice, and now its always everyday at least 5 6 times. Should i check the blow off valve? or the boost control or something???

[lagperformance]

couple things could be causing your problem

1/ try to tighten the spring on the blow off valve might be too loose and leaking at idle causing stalling

2/ throttle position sensor is sitting in the wrong position if you rev it in neutral let the throttle drop and it dies could be a good chance its not set up properly

3/ air flow meter clean and check

4/ a fuel leak at the injectors or metal fuel filter anywhere along the line can cause stalling and idle issues

5/ your engine should idle around 800rpm adjustments to the ecu idle control the aac (idle valve) located on plenum and throttle position sensor need to be made correctly if ones out they are all out.

these would be your main causes of stalling

[Hydroxinol]

this didnt use to be a big problem but now has gotten worse.

i would be driving normal and then stop at the stop lights and then all of a sudden the revs usually once u put it in neutral the revs jump to like 1500rpm and then they come down to about 1000rpm and then it just holds itself there, mine doesnt, it jumps up as normal to 1500 and then it goes down to 1000, then lower lower lower, until it hits 0 and then switches off.

everything i stop somewhere idling i have to keep revving the car to keep the revs up or else it i left it it would just die out. this happens when i stop quick when i quickly shift into neutral whilst driving it jumps to 1500 then bang down to 0, but if i stop realllyy slowing and slow down before i go in neutral it doesnt have a big affect, only when i stop quickly or normally, i dont wanna have to slow down and then creep 500 metres before a stop light i dont know whats going on with my car!!!

i thought it was the air, but i checked everything all the air pipes the little cords that go to everything, its all locked in and even if it was a air problem the car would continuously revving up and down at every stop this only happens 80% of the time, but its a shit wen it happens on a hill lol

what do you think it could be?

I had the exact same problem with mine. I checked all the usual suspects and it turned out to be a faulty Oxygen Sensor. To test: Warm car up by leaving to idle in driveway. When idle starts to fluctuate unplug the wires going to the Oxygen Sensor (located on dump pipe behind turbo). Leave for a minute and see if your idle picks up. If it does your Oxygen Sensor needs replacing.

[mosquitocoils]

AAC valve clean and reset. Simple

[stimps]

From experience, all these RB engines suffer from this as the mamagement system wasnt designed that well for hotter climates and dont allow for "ageing" of the parts. Particularly the AAC valve clogs up and in hindsite Nissan should have made this valve a bit bigger so it takes over more "control" of the idle. This is why a good clean of this valve helps. I have installed a small bypass valve into mine connected to the air conditioner compressor clutch, so when the extra load is on (air con running) which sometimes stalls the engine on a hot day at the traffic lights, the extra air going in helps pick up the idle speed. A small solenoid valve with 1/4 inch air lines does the trick. wire it up in parrallel with the air con clutch wire.

The IAC valve on most engines seems to have stopped working, not sure why, but i just closed mine off and screw out the idle adjust screw a bit to compensate, means i have a slightly higher idle than usual, but the ecu compensates for this with the AAC valve slightly and with this setup, it usually hasnt a issue.

Its just a bit of a pain with these engines the idle setup, not the best. In later models they made the ecu use advance and retard idle control a bit more aggressive to take more control and prevent stalling. If you have a good look at a unmodified R34 engine you will notice how much better they idle.

The early R32 2 litre engines were the worst ones for this problem.

You just have to fiddle with them a bit and maybe put up with a bit higher than normal idle and you can live with it!