Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

New engine has just been tuned. I have a nice 300rwkw tune for pump fuel as thats plenty for the street. And a 475rwkw E85 tune at only 24psi as that seems the be the limit of my exhaust system.

It makes 180rwkw @ 4000 and 360rwkw by 4500 so things get fun pretty quick.

Just need a 4" system and a less restrictive muffler and should make more but this will do for now :thumbsup:

"Like"

New engine has just been tuned. I have a nice 300rwkw tune for pump fuel as thats plenty for the street. And a 475rwkw E85 tune at only 24psi as that seems the be the limit of my exhaust system.

It makes 180rwkw @ 4000 and 360rwkw by 4500 so things get fun pretty quick.

Just need a 4" system and a less restrictive muffler and should make more but this will do for now :thumbsup:

Impressive!

Has lack of drive in forward gears. Still has reverse and when tranbrake turned on still has reverse.

I wanted to give it a squirt before powercruise, tried a little powerskid and when it was loaded up in top gear it lost all drive. Trans temp was about 85deg

Still not sure what let go as I can be bothered with the car now.

  • 1 month later...

I have no updates. But 3.0L related

Has anyone seen either a td06-20g or any other smallish turbo on a twincam 30? I have seen a few gt3076's done

Or if you had a choice the best super responsive circa 300rwkw turbo

I'm thinking I want 20+ psi at 3000 rpm and mega midrange

Yeah I do have an update actually.

Blew the seals on the china turbo again while towing yesterday, I've reached my budget of 4 dead china turbos before moving to a proper BB core. I did put the cost of the expensive turbo off 3 years though.

In my case I think the main issue is that the china turbo is only oil cooled, and the turbo works damn hard while lugging a 2t car + 2.5t trailer.

No regrets, but it's time to move to something water cooled.

Andrew, I don't think you will get 20psi at 3000rpm to give you 300kw. Happy to be surprised though. The china turbo gave me 18psi @ 2500 for 250awkw max. I guess a good ball bearing core will come on boost a few hundred rpm sooner but that's all.

Cheers dunc, I should have added that I'm not scared of 30+psi on E85

So I'll probably have to look at one of these new fandangled Billet comp wheel things

but I also want heaps of boost down low.

So...has anyone seen any real results from either the PT5557's or teh smaller BW EFR things apart from workshop dyno numbers?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man that dinner was such a long time ago....2010! I would only replace the rubber coolant lines with silicone these days; cheap, readily available and will last for ever. You will need new hose clamps though eg https://justjap.com/products/cooling-pro-silicone-engine-heater-hose-set-black-nissan-r32-gtr-rb26dett
    • I wouldn't look too hard at what they did with the R32 GTR in endurance racing in Australia... Lots of things weren't actually available from the factory in the way those cars ran them... Japan also followed what Fred Gibson was doing here with some of there endurance cars in Japan... Australia is also the reason for things like the Brembo brakes, and the change in the gearbox... And quite a few other tricks they used to pull. There's a few other SAU peeps still on these forums that will have heard the stories direct from Alan Heaphy, Fred Gibson, and Jim Richards when we were lucky enough to have a great dinner with them
    • For all the talk of "these parts are junk" I generally recommend OEM because it's really not as bad as claimed. I have never seen or heard of a case like the N63 where the oil returns completely clog with coked oil for example in ~10 years or less. Would it be nice if it were a straighter path? I guess, but most modern cars use a scavenge pump instead of a pure gravity return. Also the factory lines that would be relatively simple to convert to braided are generally speaking hardlines from the factory. I would consider braided line to be a regression, not an improvement. It's also been engineered such that all the hardlines have appropriate strain relief where needed. There's absolutely room for improvement, for example the HKS advantage heritage intake piping shows just how much can be done to make the turbos fight each other less in OEM twin turbo configuration and reduce compressor surge but it's rarely a simple/straightforward process. I recommend looking at what the group A/N1 cars did, generally speaking the changes they made were necessary and proven in endurance racing.
    • Yes, multi relays needed, and possibly a diode. I'm not actually going to think about it though.
×
×
  • Create New...