Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

.63 or .82 gt3071 with e85 and plenty of boost should come about as close as your gonna get to your goal.

or if your happy to go crazy with boost (and not worried about turbo life and heat etc) you could try a large rear housed gtx28 of some sort

  On 25/03/2012 at 12:31 PM, JonnoHR31 said:

.63 or .82 gt3071 with e85 and plenty of boost should come about as close as your gonna get to your goal.

or if your happy to go crazy with boost (and not worried about turbo life and heat etc) you could try a large rear housed gtx28 of some sort

I did actually have teh GTX28's in mind for the 1J, cant help but think the turbine side will be too small for the 3L

But I am now looking at those options, Cheers

  On 25/03/2012 at 12:42 PM, NYTSKY said:

Fuel economy and E85 dont mix :)

I did 180kms on the weekend and used 40L lol

Ive done 280ks to 40oddL of 98 and the car is standard lol

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  On 24/03/2012 at 6:37 AM, zebra said:

I have no updates. But 3.0L related

Has anyone seen either a td06-20g or any other smallish turbo on a twincam 30? I have seen a few gt3076's done

Or if you had a choice the best super responsive circa 300rwkw turbo

I'm thinking I want 20+ psi at 3000 rpm and mega midrange

I'm planning on slapping together a 25/30 for round 2 on the 14th of July and i'll be running a TD06-20g High mount.....

I shall inform you of how it goes!

You can use this one:

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=17872&cat=&page=1

But ideally you want one a tiny bit shorter as once you deck the head and block and the belt stretches a bit it gets real close....

Much better off relocating the drivers side tensioner, just wait until you have a belt so you can figure out exactly where to put it as the dimensions in the PDF don't always work.

I used the measurements in the PDF with the above belt and it didnt work, couldn't get the belt on but it was close. Probably just needs to be moved to the right 5-10mm. No set measurements are garunteed to be perfect as theres too many variables.

here is what i do at work;

i grind the head & block

i put the cams in

i put the crank in

i put a thick rag on the deck

i put the head on

i put on all the timing gear

i put bearing blue on bottom of stud,

i then line up tensioner to where its best suited

i then drill and tap the M10x 1.5 thread

  • 1 month later...

Started getting things together to get my dirty thirty project started. Funds are an issue for me so may take longer than u guys lol. But I don't wanna take short cuts so a bit longer without will be worth the wait. Picked up a complete rb30 out of an r31 couple weeks ago for a hundred bucks and a case. Planning on getting an engine stand soon and stripping it down. Then finding a r33 25 head as I want it built out of car to be slotted into daily when complete. So much info! Been reading for the past 2 weeks and printing shit off. Gerg, looking at bringing block, head and other bits and pieces down down to you if ur in Moorebank cause its around the corner from me. A while off though lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Definitely didn't put a N/A cluster in instead? The speed sensor (location) is different in both cars.... I think. This will obviously stuff things up.
    • Nah not the throwout bearing, it's something internal. I already replaced the throwout bearing. Mechanic misdiagnosed my car and thought it was a spigot bearing, went to another bloke who said it was an input shaft bearing. (I replaced everything when I pulled out the gearbox but didn't open up the gearbox.   In this video at timestamp 6:05 : Mine has the same sound  min
    • It is definitely to space it out and away for clearance during compression, and possibly for spring clearance to upper arm. That latter would only be true for springs that are same-ish diameter to stockers, and so that probably doesn't apply to Teins or most other coilovers.
    • Yeah, a mechanic who knows these cars told me even if I get a brand new gearbox the noise will return but will be less noticeable. I've heard someone also they this noise came back after 3,000km on a new or reconditioned gearbox. It is pretty f**king annoying though just hearing groaning most of the time lol. I wonder if an aftermarket input shaft bearing would fix the problem or how they are built.
    • All RB gearbags, especially the big turbo box, have rollover noise. Mine certainly does. Always has. Sometimes is worse than others - no particular idea why, although it is probably temperature related. I have smurf jizz in mine and have had to have it in there from the first day the box went into teh car. It simply would not select gears with the engine on, on day one, with normal oil in there. And so, the blue stuff has probably ruined almost everything synchro related in the box. But it has taken 12 or 13 years to get to the point where I simply must replace the box. It has become increasingly baulky of late, which might be symptomatic of the way I've been driving it, as much as anything. I shall have to make some corrections when teh new box goes in. Input shaft bearing noise will decrease with clutch pedal pressed because the drive is removed. But yes, more often than not noises that work like that are associated with the throwout. It won't matter either way, new box will mean this one can be relegated to the parts pile.
×
×
  • Create New...