Jump to content
SAU Community

Coilover Questions

Blue Arrow
 Share

Recommended Posts

Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

^^^ upgraded sway bars are without doubt the best bang for buck handling mod on a V35, but if you are happy with the stock ride height then you are from outer space, and you probably also like the +30 offset on the stock 8" wide rims ... ewwwwwwwwwwwww

For my mind, the 7cm gap between the front/rear tyres and wheel arches are completely unacceptable, and more in keeping with a 4wd off-road vehicle.

mosoto Proficient

mosoto

Posted
Posted
Actually, if you just want a better cornering car, why not leave the shock & spring but change the sway bar or Anti roll bar? Actually that's what I'm going to do. I think the car is already low enough and ride is not too hard. I'll like to keep the comfort but a better cornering car.

Sway bars are without doubt the biggest improvement you can make on the V35's handling/cornering.

scathing Grand Master

scathing

Posted
Posted
Bilstein is not standard

.....but were offered as a factory option (along with a replacement rear swaybar).

Bilstein PSS9s, I've heard, are reasonable street coilovers. The PITA rear damper adjustment aside, they're fine. If you plan on just setting them and forgetting them, then they'll serve your purpose.

I'd generally avoid anything Japanese for your intended application - they tend to assume stiffness is directly proportional to awesomeness, whereas the Euros know that maintaining constant tyre contact over an uneven surface makes the car quicker and more confidence inspiring in the real world.

Blue Arrow Enthusiast

Blue Arrow

Posted
  • Author
Posted
.....but were offered as a factory option (along with a replacement rear swaybar).

makes sense then and explains why the ride is stiffer than other standard coupes. it doesn't look aftermarket either - the nuts all look original (untouched).

Bilstein PSS9s, I've heard, are reasonable street coilovers. The PITA rear damper adjustment aside, they're fine. If you plan on just setting them and forgetting them, then they'll serve your purpose.

I'd generally avoid anything Japanese for your intended application - they tend to assume stiffness is directly proportional to awesomeness, whereas the Euros know that maintaining constant tyre contact over an uneven surface makes the car quicker and more confidence inspiring in the real world.

thanks for the advice, you're the second one to mention the PSS9. set and forget is what i'm after.

  • 2 weeks later...
Matt B Rookie

Matt B

Posted
Posted

Quick question guys, saw a few people mention the BC coilovers. Have been searching for them online, but cannot find a listing for a v35. Is it simply the case that they are the same listing as Z33 or do i need to search harder?

Had a few mates running BC's in everything from silvia's to foresters, all have had good reports.

I've been running HSD's in my s13 for the last 11000kms, with street duties as well as 3 or 4 drift days. Can't comment too much on the feel as it's pretty firm in my car (stripped car with 10/8kg spring rates), but they never clunk, seem to perform well, and are easily adjusted.

interfooler Rising Star

interfooler

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have BC coilovers in my Accord and they are awesome. The ride comfort is almost like stock but firmer and much less body roll. I have had them in the car for almost a year now and got no problems at all, no noice, no leaks all is good. If I was after a set of coilovers for the V35, BC is a no brainer. And they are extremely good value too for what they are.

Edited by interfooler
xscape237 Rising Star

xscape237

Posted
Posted
Quick question guys, saw a few people mention the BC coilovers. Have been searching for them online, but cannot find a listing for a v35. Is it simply the case that they are the same listing as Z33 or do i need to search harder?

Had a few mates running BC's in everything from silvia's to foresters, all have had good reports.

I've been running HSD's in my s13 for the last 11000kms, with street duties as well as 3 or 4 drift days. Can't comment too much on the feel as it's pretty firm in my car (stripped car with 10/8kg spring rates), but they never clunk, seem to perform well, and are easily adjusted.

justjap.com have bc racing coilovers for the v35

i actually bought the 350z set myself.

  • 2 months later...
OzSkyline Apprentice

OzSkyline

Posted
Posted

Hi team

Can anyone tell me the BC racing part numbers for the rear suspension please.

I have a 2001 4dr sedan with the seperate shock and spring combo.

If anyone has upgraded there's to BC racing can you let me know please.

Cheers, Oz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...