Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just bought a stock standard R33 GTR from the USS auction in Japan.

I got it for 594000 JPY which is equivalent to $15000 NZD landed.

The car is GRADE 4 has done 124000 kms and has only had 1 owner in Japan.

My questions are:

1) Is that high mileage for a GTR?

2) I heard that around the 120000 kms mark, you have to rebuild the bottom end bearings?

3) What are some known issues with the R33 GTR?

I have attached some pictures of the actual car.

post-73091-1272753779_thumb.jpg

post-73091-1272753790_thumb.jpg

Edited by Ninjabread Man
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/318883-importing-a-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

yeah seems so, mines got 25k more kms than yours and its going strong (might need new turbos soon though)

it looked like a series 3 because of the xenons and black front lip but i guess they were options on the earlier ones too

It's series 1, no xenons and deeper front lip.

Good buy, mileage is nothing cos it's a 15 year old car after all... Hell, I've seen GTR with '40,000km' with numerous wear and tears.

Log books?

It's series 1, no xenons and deeper front lip.

Good buy, mileage is nothing cos it's a 15 year old car after all... Hell, I've seen GTR with '40,000km' with numerous wear and tears.

Log books?

Unsure about the log books, will email the agent tomorrow.

Is there any problems with the R33 GTR's that I should know about?

I know that they have leaky boot problems as I have a R33 GTS25t myself and it had this issue.

Would it be as or if not more reliable then my GTS25t?

I have 33 GT-R and I use it as my daily driver, I haven't got any issues apart from broke a intercooler piping clamp (was told it's pretty common) when I was driving in twisties.

You have a grade 4 car, shouldn't have any issues and do a 100,000km service on it to be safe. Just overfill the oil to the hump on dipstick if you're doing trackdays, do a search on this forum for more info.

I don't have leaky boot on my GTR though but my old GTS25t had and it was coming out of taillights.

As for reliablity, if maintained well it'll be reliable just like GTS25t really.

I have 33 GT-R and I use it as my daily driver, I haven't got any issues apart from broke a intercooler piping clamp (was told it's pretty common) when I was driving in twisties.

You have a grade 4 car, shouldn't have any issues and do a 100,000km service on it to be safe. Just overfill the oil to the hump on dipstick if you're doing trackdays, do a search on this forum for more info.

I don't have leaky boot on my GTR though but my old GTS25t had and it was coming out of taillights.

As for reliablity, if maintained well it'll be reliable just like GTS25t really.

Sweet thanks for the info.

How many KM's has your GTR done?

I'm pretty stoked that I got this for $15000 NZD landed and complied as the ones here in NZ go for around $24000 to $26000.

Sweet thanks for the info.

How many KM's has your GTR done?

I'm pretty stoked that I got this for $15000 NZD landed and complied as the ones here in NZ go for around $24000 to $26000.

My GTR has done 95,000 but that is on Nismo Combination Meter though.

$15k NZD is $11,783 AUD!, yes I'd be stoked with the price!

And didn't NZ decide to stop import of cars that are older than 1996 or thereabouts?

And didn't NZ decide to stop import of cars that are older than 1996 or thereabouts?

Yeah but there is a new Special Interest Vehicle law.

http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/factshee...t-vehicles.html

The R33 GTR meets all of the following criteria:

# The vehicle's make and model has been (or was) manufactured in annual volumes of 20,000 units or less.

# The vehicle is, and was manufactured as, a two-door coupe or a convertible.

# The vehicle is, and was manufactured as, a high-performance vehicle.

The only issue of getting a car under a SIV permit is "A special interest vehicle cannot be sold or leased within four years of its registration in New Zealand."

So the oldest you're aloud to import is 1996?

My parents were over there early this year and they saw too many old cars there, the amusing thing was they rented a 1996 Toyota Corolla!

So you could still import anything else there?

So the oldest you're aloud to import is 1996?

My parents were over there early this year and they saw too many old cars there, the amusing thing was they rented a 1996 Toyota Corolla!

So you could still import anything else there?

No you can't import cars under 2001 now.

Fortunately, every GTR (R32, R33 and R34) meet the SIV law criteria and can be imported :)

No you can't import cars under 2001 now.

Fortunately, every GTR (R32, R33 and R34) meet the SIV law criteria and can be imported :)

Ah what about GTST/GT-Ts?

Also I once looked trademe, one seller noted that it's illegal to import 32 GTR to NZ without firewall modification, is this is the case?

OP, sorry for off topic, but I'm curious about how importation to NZ works.

Ah what about GTST/GT-Ts?

Also I once looked trademe, one seller noted that it's illegal to import 32 GTR to NZ without firewall modification, is this is the case?

OP, sorry for off topic, but I'm curious about how importation to NZ works.

I'm not sure if GTST / GT-T's would comply as I don't know the production figures of them.

Anyway, you can't sell the car for four years so if you get bored with the GTST / GT-T and you want a GTR, then bad luck.

You can register a 1989 BNR32 under a classics car law which means that it doesn't have to meet frontal impact and emission standards. 1990 and over will have to meet emissions so the only way to import 1990 and above GTR's, is with a SIV permit.

Raymond,

Thanks for anwering my questions and explaining how importation process works 'across the ditch'

4 years is a long time to own a car (longest I've owned was 28 months), thank god I live here in Australia...

Cheers

Grant

Congrats mate. Some great roads in NZ to test it out on :(

As Grant said get a 100K service done and make sure the cooland and brake fluid are changed too. The coolant had gone bad on two of the GTRs we've bought that were imported straight from Japan.

Mine's done 105,000km now (bought it in Oct 05 with 45,000) and it's still tight as a drum, but being mostly stock it's a fairly un-stressed motor.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...