Jump to content
SAU Community

Upgrading R32 Sound System


Vdragon
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just working on upgrading my stock R32 sound system. Just cant decided wat 2 put in. I dont really want a sub but i want a speakers that give u a good sound a bass so yeah just wondering wat u guys wud recommend i shud do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

a mate of mine put in these JL midi bass speakers 6 inch i think in the bak of his 34 tho... for a car with no sub their fairly decent... around 600 bux tho...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I run Pioneer TSD1702C 6.5inch Splits for the front (Great Speakers and very clear) you will need to make an MDF spacer to get them in under the factory grille and clear the window, Pioneer TS-A1682S 6inch 4-way speakers in the rear parcel shelf (they're ok I only got them to complete the sound stage), in the boot I do run a sub though, but it fits good and is in factory made box, it's a Pioneer TS-W307D2 - Champion Series 12inch. All this runs off a Pioneer GM6300F 600w 4 channel amp for the speakers and a Pioneer GMD7400M 800w Class D Mono Amplifier for the sub. All up a pretty well sorted system and does me fine with the added ability to remove the sub if I need too. Problem is fittin gthe amps to the back of the seat in the 32 as the boot isn't that roomy lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

a mate of mine put in these JL midi bass speakers 6 inch i think in the bak of his 34 tho... for a car with no sub their fairly decent... around 600 bux tho...

yeah they arent bad

i have the next model up in the doors of my 34 they were around 729. then jl 6x9's in the parcel shelf. 2 jl amps and an jl 12 inch and it f**king rocks.

it doesnt come cheap though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

think we have hashed this subject a few hundred times now...lol use the search function

those Black Death "Vibe" brand speakers are new to OZ, been around England for a while now. there not any better then average gear. just something new style wise.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I run Pioneer TSD1702C 6.5inch Splits for the front (Great Speakers and very clear) you will need to make an MDF spacer to get them in under the factory grille and clear the window, Pioneer TS-A1682S 6inch 4-way speakers in the rear parcel shelf (they're ok I only got them to complete the sound stage), in the boot I do run a sub though, but it fits good and is in factory made box, it's a Pioneer TS-W307D2 - Champion Series 12inch. All this runs off a Pioneer GM6300F 600w 4 channel amp for the speakers and a Pioneer GMD7400M 800w Class D Mono Amplifier for the sub. All up a pretty well sorted system and does me fine with the added ability to remove the sub if I need too. Problem is fittin gthe amps to the back of the seat in the 32 as the boot isn't that roomy lol

ey mate how much did that cost u all up? coz it sounds awsome might look into a bit more

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
    • Here's the torque curves from the car I ramped boost up later in the rpm to allow a slightly wider useful power curve - the power curve is a bit weird shaped also thanks to the TVIS (or whatever they call it with the 4EFTE in this Starlet) which changes the volume of the intake manifold throughout the rpm range, but you can see that the green power curve actually holds later on with the extra boost... but looks almost more like the kind of thing you'd expect from a cam or exhaust change
×
×
  • Create New...