Jump to content
SAU Community

Life after skyline! Can it be done?


Recommended Posts

:bonk:

My skyline has served me well, but it looks like after six years it will be sold by the weekend..........

Im just tossing up what to get now?

I dont think anything is going to fill the void.

The top of the list so far is a

Jeep Wrangler!

But yeh i still have no idea...

any suggestions? i have anywhere from $20k-30k to spend...

i will go back to skylines (r34 gtt probably one day), but right now i cant decide...

am i mad ? :headspin:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

WHen i got rid of my R33 for a WRX after about 2 weeks i was wishing i was in my R33 again!

Selling WRX now after 6 months to get hopefully SII R33 GTS-t....

DON'T DO IT! (Just kidding)

There is nothing that compares IMHO...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the ones with the massive wheels are interesting... especially when they're shiney black with chrome bits and huge wheels...

not this big, but you get the idea :)

jeep-britt-fl-1b.jpg

edit -- these are the wheels i was talking about :)

chrissy_jeep1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do what I've done for the last 10 years. I always loved my Nissans but I also go snowboarding, mountain biking, fishing, etc. and needed a 4WD. In '93 I introduced myself to the cult world of Suzuki Sierra ownership which enabled me to also hang on to my Skyline at the time. Now I've owned 3 and my bro still has the first one I got, an '83 with Toyota 5K and headers. My current one is a '97 coil sprung that I bought new and traded my Ti on it. Never regret the Suzi, do regret selling the Skyline. A few weeks and I'm back my old position.

By the way, my Suzi has a 2" lift and 235 Kuhmo's and I still haven't found anywhere I can't go.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeh mountain biking too...

but the sierra is a bit small, and the wrangler has a 4 litre 6 six cylinder :)

although its a bit of an old design;

4.0L In-line overhead valve 6-cylinder

Fuel System Sequential multipoint Electronic Fuel Injection

Power (kW @ rpm) 130 @ 4,600

Torque (Nm @ rpm) 296 @ 3,500

Compression ratio 8.75:1

Capa have a bolt on supercharger kit for $6000!! :ak47:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • normally i don't like to get involed with these kinds of self promotions stuff, but good on you for living your dream man.
    • Remember our cars are 30+ years old so expect the rubber bits to leak. I'd go around your engine bay with a can of "start ya bastard" or similar and look for leaks. FYI I got my car 10+ years ago with the standard boost restrictor in place, I removed it when I got it and the car never had any issues since (besices a leaking manifold gasket). tl;dr- Look for leaks before proceeding.
    • That SSR is actually the same (or similar) as the Jaycar 100AMP SSR (which I use). They suggest the resistor to stop the SSR turning on when the ECU turns off (I believe). I personally don't use the resistor as I use the 5V output from the ECU to supply power to the SSR. I do however run a flyback diode, the old Haltech documentation was wrong too and didn't specify the fly back, I mentioned it to a few of their staff and they eventually added it in.
    • I did manage to do this without removing the engine or front cross member, but I had the advantage that the exhaust manifold was removed. I am not setup to support the engine from the top or remove it. 1. Loosen the engine mount nuts so they only have a nut of thread. If it is a manual, I think you have to remove the gearbox to engine support brackets. 2. Jack up the engine off the bottom idler mount. Jack it up till the end of the slot and nut on the mount. You need this clearance to get the pan out at the rear of the engine. 3.Break the sealant seal to sump. I found a oil pan separator tool helpful to get it started. 4. The oil pick up can be removed with the gap available.  5. The oil pan can be removed now. 6. Before assembling, do not apply sealant to the oil pick up area as your hand will rub it all off but apply to the other three and a bit sides. 7. It is a two man job to put the oil pan back, with the sealant, as you do not want it to touch anything and rub off. 8. With one person supporting the oil pan the other can fit the oil pickup 9. Apply the remaining sealant. This would be more difficult with the manifold or turbo in place, but I think it could be done. As you can see my sealant is a bit ugly, but good enough to seal. 10. Lift the sump up to the engine and bolt it on. We found it was easier to use two long guide bolts at each end to get it nice and aligned without touching.
    • I find building an exhaust a really satisfying job! Looks nice!   Did you consider using an oval pipe to get the same cross sectional area but keep it above the chassis rail?
×
×
  • Create New...