Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

really need some help recently took my car R33 series 2 gtst to all star garage in malaga to get a boost controller put in. the controller was put in and the car was put on the dyno but didnt get my dyno sheet anyways.. when i went to pick the car up he said that he hadnt boosted it past the stocl psi which is 7 because the engine will blow and he also tuned the time down?? dont know what he ment by that and apparently my car is now running slower than what it was when i bought it in. he also said that im running very lean and and that my computer is gonna die but i dont understand how the comp can f**k up when all ive done to the car is put a turbo back exhaust, BOV, and pod filter... any recomendations on a ecu i should use or if anyone knows whats going onnn.

thanks

if the car is running lean then there is an issue that isn't going to be caused by the stock ecu. i'd say that your fuel pump is on it's way out (or already gone by the sounds of it). i'd start by replacing the pump and the fuel filter (in case it's blocked) and then take it back and get it dyno'd again.

I just don't understand why they would spin such a story... AllStar are bloody excellent, why wouldn't they just say "something is up with the car mate, it's running lean so we have retarded the timing and kept the boost stock". Those guys are wizards with ECU's, why would they blame the ECU when it is a problem that i'm sure isn't being caused by the ECU?

thats the thing i dont understand i here all this great stuff about them and thats exactly what they said to me.. they said that my ecu is pretty much f**ked! and they also spun some shit about how r33's are the shittest skyline ever made blah blah.. my cuzns are good mates with nick and say if he dosnt know you hes a bit of a gypsey so dont know if thats the case.. but i do know what im talking about and i have told you word for word what he said dont no what the whole deal is with my ecu, ive never heard of anyone having ecu probs before with minimum work done to there car

if the car is running lean then there is an issue that isn't going to be caused by the stock ecu. i'd say that your fuel pump is on it's way out (or already gone by the sounds of it). i'd start by replacing the pump and the fuel filter (in case it's blocked) and then take it back and get it dyno'd again.

hey man thanks alot for your advice

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...