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Rb26 Stock Rods With Arp Bolts Or Eagle H-beam Rods?


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I understand that many products have little or no gain, still i think a forged set would be better then a standard set from nissan

Though i didnt know that Eagle was made in China?

What kind of power you think you'll start having problems with Eagle Rods?

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There was a supra that did 574rwkw for AGES on eagles with CP pistons.

Zero issues, so if you want to buy rods, and eagles are what the budget allows, go for it.

Of course there's better rods out there, but as said already above, the price goes up aswel

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There was a supra that did 574rwkw for AGES on eagles with CP pistons.

Zero issues, so if you want to buy rods, and eagles are what the budget allows, go for it.

Of course there's better rods out there, but as said already above, the price goes up aswel

Thats exactly what i was trying to say to Paul.

I dont think they're that crap as he is actually letting on, i've seen quite a few cars hold 400+awkw with those rods/cp piston combo.

Hence i asked him how much he thinks it could hold, since i'll be tuning my car for 400+ soon :wub:

I agree there are better rods, but perhaps he is just saying nitto rods because he shelves them? :wub:

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go with the nitto i-beam rods, thats what i was advised to use in my 26 not overly expensive at $1300.

id rather pay good money for rods and have the peace of mind that they will do the job. And as some one said before, the assembly of the engine is very important to

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Thats exactly what i was trying to say to Paul.

I dont think they're that crap as he is actually letting on, i've seen quite a few cars hold 400+awkw with those rods/cp piston combo.

Hence i asked him how much he thinks it could hold, since i'll be tuning my car for 400+ soon :wub:

I agree there are better rods, but perhaps he is just saying nitto rods because he shelves them? :wub:

Yeah great, someone who's reading between the lines!

There used to be a rebuild kit that everyone got, CP's and Eagles, then you bought an N1 oil pump and a JUN crank collar. Every decent shop in Sydney stocked all those parts (or could have them the next day). CRD used to have them aswel, and there were SO MANY GTR's and GTST's you would see for sale running CP's and Eagles. Hell, i know of at least 10 people using that combo without thinking hard at all.

Now CRD are selling their own/the "Nitto" brand and all of a sudden Eagles are crap when they used to sell dozens of them?

Doesnt take half a brain to figure out whats going on here.....well, judging by a lot of the posts in this thread, maybe it does!

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Yeah great, someone who's reading between the lines!

There used to be a rebuild kit that everyone got, CP's and Eagles, then you bought an N1 oil pump and a JUN crank collar. Every decent shop in Sydney stocked all those parts (or could have them the next day). CRD used to have them aswel, and there were SO MANY GTR's and GTST's you would see for sale running CP's and Eagles. Hell, i know of at least 10 people using that combo without thinking hard at all.

Now CRD are selling their own/the "Nitto" brand and all of a sudden Eagles are crap when they used to sell dozens of them?

Doesnt take half a brain to figure out whats going on here.....well, judging by a lot of the posts in this thread, maybe it does!

im saying they are a waste of money at the power level the OP stated...ive seen how they balance up, the surface finish, the poor tolerance across the cap etc...In comparison to a nicely prepared stocker, in my opinion they are rubbish. Which is the same place you could throw your money if you bought them for an engine you one...didn't really need to or two...thought you were purchasing a precision engineered and durable engine component. Id sooner suggest Spool rods over Eagles as the ones ive seen were actually not too bad when comparing the two. This is something i mentioned to NYTSKY when building his combo about 2 years ago...so nothing to do with the fact a new rod has come on the market that is top quality. Please also understand that resizing Nissan rods only applies to thick cross-section RB26 items...ive seen how easily Nissan RB25's bend at 350kw.

This has nothing to do with CRD or anyone else...my opinion, gained from experience ive had with the product.

If you care to read between the lines also...i wasn't the one who asked about Nitto rods or brought it up in this thread. I also mentioned another two brands that ive used that im very impressed with.

Syslink...ive heard good reports from guys using Pauter, but have no 1st hand experience myself. Argo re-bushes a certain Japanese brand rod i have used with different material for me as i have found them to be too soft due to material used and the thickness of it (only an issue in big boost and high rpm engines)...so id say Argo should be able to do Pauter also.

Edited by Swiper the Fox
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Ive never seen a Nissan RB26 rod bend or fail because of its lack of durability at high power or rpm.

Have you ever seen an Eagle rod bend or fail because of its lack of durability at high power or rpm? I have never used them, but they are $650 for a set on an RB26. They are lighter then std rods. I was quoted $75 per rod for balancing, re-sizing and all that prep caper...then you need to buy the ARP bolts.

So, for the money, you get new though are you saying you will still end up spending $50 a rod on linishing etc? I like the Eagles as from the catalogues they are significantly ligther, and seem to still handle boost, revs and power no problem

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Have you ever seen an Eagle rod bend or fail because of its lack of durability at high power or rpm? I have never used them, but they are $650 for a set on an RB26. They are lighter then std rods. I was quoted $75 per rod for balancing, re-sizing and all that prep caper...then you need to buy the ARP bolts.

So, for the money, you get new though are you saying you will still end up spending $50 a rod on linishing etc? I like the Eagles as from the catalogues they are significantly ligther, and seem to still handle boost, revs and power no problem

They split length ways right up the rod.

Whoever is quoting you to resize and balance rods is raping you. It takes about 1/2 an hour to do a set.

Edited by Swiper the Fox
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Machinist in Footscray, Melb. Has done plenty of ski boat engines...so open to hear other options.

So the failure of the Eagle rod, is that one rod, a few times. Can it go down to a manufacturing fault or assembly?

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ok....

so what's the conclustion? stock rods with arp bolts will handle the 600WHP that i am aiming for?

with stock i mean non prepped rods... just put arp bolts and that it

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straight from ARGO website.

6 CYLINDER SETS

NISSAN RB30 (21MM & 22MM PIN)

$1050 plus GST

------------------------------------------------------------

NISSAN RB26

$900 plus GST

mmmyeah, dunno why you wouldn't go these?

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straight from ARGO website.

6 CYLINDER SETS

NISSAN RB30 (21MM & 22MM PIN)

$1050 plus GST

------------------------------------------------------------

NISSAN RB26

$900 plus GST

mmmyeah, dunno why you wouldn't go these?

a round of applause....someone has hit the nail smack on the head.

Against quality engineered products like ARGO (that are not really that much more expensive than Eagle) and Nitto both produced from top grade billet (there are 12 different grades of 4340 steel) why would you bother with anything else....and if you dont have the $1000 for a set of these you can prep your stockers for about $200 a set.

Edited by Swiper the Fox
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I bought a whole heap of stuff for a rb26 rebuild, such as hks cam springs, greddy n1 ss camshafts, cometic 87mm gasket kit, arp head/main studs, acl race bearings, n1 water pump, hks oil pump etc etc

also includes hks 87mm pistons with ATTKD rods using arp rod bolts. the pistons/rods/oilpump/cams are near brand new at 500kms use BUT secondhand

Anyone know much about these attkd rods ?

What prep-work do I do to the 'used' parts prior to rebuilding?

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