Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 110
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Is there a super deal for Friday only? (Can't make it for saturday :) )

Not sure, drop Steve-o a pm on that one

can i meet up and pay you? :whistling:

Sorry no, Superlap are making us pre-order to get the discounted prices.

And please everyone remember this offer closes Monday 17 May, ie we must have received the money by then

Steve,

I just deposited $70.00 for two Saturday passes.

I will PM you my details.

Cheers.

No probs

Is there a super deal for Friday only? (Can't make it for saturday :P )

Nope sorry

can i meet up and pay you? :)

Nope

I dont want to publicly list my name here as I see it as an invasion of privacy.... besides a clan of ninjas are after me, who should I PM, will pay tomorrow for fri and sat.

O.....k......PM me like everyone else, but i iwll need your full name and delivery address to send the tickets to, so if thats a problem, dont PM me

just deposited $50 for 1x 2 day pass. u have pm

No probs

PM sent

No probs

Prepaid ticket prices;

Saturday only, $35 ($40rrp)

Two day pass, $50 ($60rrp) <---This one is the best if you can take Friday off work, open testing is on Friday

To get tickets its really easy, here's the steps;

1. Deposit money into SAUNSW bank account (details below)

2. Post up in this thread, your full name and date of deposit then PM ME YOUR POSTAL ADDRESS FOR WHERE YOU WANT THE TICKETS TO GO!!!

3. Tickets will mailed to buyers on Monday the 17th

Bank details are;

Bank - NAB

Branch - Marrickville

Account name - Skylines Australia NSW

BSB - 082 356

Account number - 546 393 766

Reference: PLEASE PUT YOUR FULL NAME AND SAU ID

Cheers guys :P

Sounds great! Would you have 6 tickets for me?? =)

Hey guys, my R33 GTR will be competing in the Chemtech Show & Shine held at superlap.

For those who are interested in coming, please come and say hi.

....oh and there might be a few fast cars running round the track but no big deal :thumbsup:

Hope to see a few of you there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...