Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item Summary: Hks manifold, Hks piping, Hks wastegate, Hks Filters, Gtr Afm's Rare parts, Quality items

Location: QLD: Regional

Condition: Used

Reason for Selling: Going high mount

Asking Price: $1100

Delivery Methods: PickUp

Contact Info: pm on here or email: [email protected]

Extra Information:

Wanting to sell the kit as a whole preferably. Suits an r32 Gtr or anything with a rb26 in it i guess. Convert you twin set up to a big single.

Includes:

2x R32 Gtr AFM's (re-solidered and in perfect working order)

2x Hks Mushroom filters

2x Afm to filter Hks bolt on adapters

1x Hks cast low rise manifold, t4 flange, divided collectors, wastgate provision on top, heat shield mounting lugs

1x Hks cast manifold to wastegate adapter, 3bolt traingle to 4bolt square (suit 50mm hks w.g)

1x Hks 55mm wastegate (has been modified to be adjustable)

1X Hks power intake pipe, fits 4" turbo inlet and uses twin gtr afm's

2x Hks power compressor outlet piping (matches up with standard gtr intercooler pipe just before it goes through the gaurd)

This manifold allows big single turbos to be fitted in the low mount position. Has had a HKS Ta45 and holset hx35w fitted to it, the are both large frame turbo's and cleared everything fine.

The BOV mounted on the piping is not included, there is a alluminium plate that will be included to block this outlet.

All the pipes are cast so there's no chance of leaking welds or cracking ect heat wrap will be removed.

Thats all i can think of at this stage, any questions ask away!

090218_213302.jpg

090216_175819.jpg

090216_162429.jpg

090215_140139.jpg

P1010327-1.jpg

DSCF1503.jpg

DSCF1504.jpg

DSCF1497.jpg

100410_134800-1.jpg

DSCF1508.jpg

DSCF1509.jpg

DSCF1511.jpg

DSCF1512.jpg

DSCF1513.jpg

Edited by zachscalais
  • 4 weeks later...

Just to answer the question of how ive made it adjustable Ive attached some pictures. It uses the same method as other gates, the more you wind down the threaded shaft coming out the top the greater preload it puts on the spring, essentially making the spring stiffer and only opening at higher boost. I have it adjusted to 17psi at the moment.

090714_183134.jpg

090714_181422.jpg

090714_182353.jpg

090714_182530.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
    • Assuming that they will come off without damage at all.... i would have thought just pull straight up off the spindle with a something or other than can reach underneath. Have you searched for youtube vids of people doing similar on R34s or any other Nissan from the same vintage? They should be the same technique, in all likelihhood.
    • Keeping in mind that sandblasting is really aggressive on softer metals like cast alloy, and you can do damage that you might regret. For trash wheels, not a problem. For wheels with value/scarcity issues, etc.... perhaps a less aggressive media is a better choice?
    • Don't get all high and mighty. Experienced spanner wielders know exactly what effort is required to release an Oof.
×
×
  • Create New...