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FWIW, as well as a basic immobiliser/remote unlock (all basic units give you those 2 things), I would also install a 4g tracker in any car I cared about. Just hide it anywhere that won't be found in a rushed look and preferably get something with a built in battery backup so it stays online for a while when the battery is removed or flat While its not a car, when our car trailer was stolen in that den of crime Sydney about a decade ago, the cops were watching from the bloke's neighbour's lawn within about 2 hours until he started swapping the plates and putting up the gumtree ad. Obviously it is still not undefeatable (eg parking it up for a few days somewhere without sky sight) but it greatly improves your chances of getting it back quickly and with less damage -
By soviet_merlin · Posted
Instead of magic keyphrases I wonder if something can be done with auto complete. Similar to how user names are handled already. When you type '@' and follow with letters, it'll search across all usernames. It might work to have the same for forum topics. Some key to trigger it and then text search across all thread names and it'll insert the name and URL when pressing enter. -
Hmmm.... It's actually a bit weird. Here's the key bit of the diagram. I've circled what I'm pretty sure is the high beam indicator on the cluster. It appears to be just in parallel with one of the high beam lamp globes. Meaning, that however the high beams get lit, the indicator should also be lit. So there shouldn't be any difference between being on normal headlight main beam, or just flashing. I've followed the physical diagram (which is not so easily summarised in a single snip, so I didn't put it up here) and it agrees with what you can see here. If you struggle to follow this crap....let me explain some of it. I always struggle when I first look at this - even though I have looked specifically at this more than once in the past. We'll start with the flash. The flash is triggered by pulling the dip switch back, right? That is indicated on the diagram by the P position on the switch block labelled "Light SW", on the RHS of the snip. The bottom-right most terminal is connected to ground. That's that wire line going down to the bottom. The next terminal up is connected to the bottom terminal when the switch is pulled back. That provides ground to wire LA33, which is connected to the coil of the relay in the middle of the snip, "Headlamp relay (2M)". That relay always has power on the other side of the coil, from fuse #19 above it. When that relay is triggered, the two main headlamp fuses #32 & #33 above feed through the relay down onto wires LA31 and LA32, which are connected into the wires that go to the main beams, LA04 and LA06. The cluster indicator is connected to LA32 also. When the main beams are on normally, the light switch ("Light SW" again) is in the M position. Power comes in for the left and right sides on LA34 and LA36, via the other light switch (the one on the binnacle, called "Light SW (Instrument)" on the diagram). Obviously that switch needs to be in the 2nd position, because that's headlights. 1st position is parkers. The same main headlamp fuses #32 & #33 feed through that switch, out via LA34&36 to the stalk switch, and of out of the stalk switch via LA04 and LA06 to the headlamps. From there, it is no different to the flasher version. I really don't know why they bothered with the flash relay. They probably didn't want to add another contact in the stalk switch - but I'm damn sure that's what I would have done. Just reverse the order of power feed, so that it goes from the fuses to the stalk switch first, and add another contact for flashing. Everything would have worked just the same, but less complicated. /bitchrant -
I think the solution Pac posted in the other thread is the way to go with the top screen; I have an ADM Q50 and I only use it for 2 things: 1. Reverse or front camera as triggered automatically by Reverse selection or the front sonars, and you can also call up the front left (or front) camera when parking by hitting the camera button on the centre console if necessary 2. Navigation. I can assure you that getting hold of a 10 year old nav system is utterly useless. The ADM system still has Inifiniti dealers marked (always give me a good laugh), is missing all new freeways, uses fixed speed by road type to determine arrival time, no traffic/re-routing, no speed cameras, no user reported cameras etc etc you get the idea So, Pac posted in the other thread about a box that plugs into the USB C and gives you full Android OS to run whatever modern/connected nav you want on the top screen, and it still automatically switches back to function 1 above when required because it runs within the head unit. The other modern alternative is the latest version of the Tesla screen like this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007511322502.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.25.33cefEZifEZibq&algo_pvid=cdae429c-aa8d-437f-a436-c727fee85461&algo_exp_id=cdae429c-aa8d-437f-a436-c727fee85461-12&pdp_npi=4%40dis!AUD!2181.36!1265.19!!!9834.81!5704.20!%402101c71a17362022663526105e36d7!12000041077843545!sea!AU!163137612!X&curPageLogUid=F9811g8oqx5H&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A But I haven't looked into whether it is compatible with Australian 4G bands yet so it may require a separate 4g dongle to provide data
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In the 32 race car, I basically run what Gary told me and it is lovely across a range of conditions which is what I needed. I've got revalved bilsteins, adjustable solid sway bars, adjustable bushes all round. Just looking at Neil's R33 GTST and it has pretty much the same on board, Gary Bilsteins, Selby/whiteline sway bars. Gary knows suspension generally and these cars specifically very well across street, street/track and track only use and gives a very well balanced set up. Just be aware his preference is for light springs and heavy sway bars, there is another school of though (eg MCA) that prefer lighter swaybars and heavier springs/shocks. The evo I raced had that setup and it was also very nice so there are multiple ways to skin cats.
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