Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Trying to diagnose a problem with my crank angle sensor,

Its an rb25 running an rb20 red top cas. (ems 8860 ecu)

Im not getting spark under cranking conditions, if I turn the ignition on & take the cas out & spin the thing I can see the coils firing and hear the injectors clicking (they coils seem to be firing very fast tho)

Wiring seems in check as far as I can see.

Is this a cas related thing or would neither injectors or spark work if the cas was playing up?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319244-is-my-cas-not-working-properly/
Share on other sites

battery faulty or dead. Starter motor drawing too much current. Check earths, check cranking voltages.

If the cas works when you turn it manually, but not when cranking, then it's usually a case of voltage drop when cranking

have u looked on ur cam to see if the key is still on it ( little peice of metal that links inside cas ) sorry dont know technical name ! but it wont spin it if its snapped off ..

had similar problem when it didnt link up and cas wouldnt sit properly in.

Really hope this isnt the case otherwise potentially ( could be wrong ) rb20 cas dont work with rb25's ?? good luck

have u looked on ur cam to see if the key is still on it ( little peice of metal that links inside cas ) sorry dont know technical name ! but it wont spin it if its snapped off ..

had similar problem when it didnt link up and cas wouldnt sit properly in.

Really hope this isnt the case otherwise potentially ( could be wrong ) rb20 cas dont work with rb25's ?? good luck

--------------------------

Hey mate, I actually have an ecu that requires the cas wheel to be 1 tooth out, (from 60btdc to 1btdc-10btdc) so instead of spinning the internal trigger wheel I just removed the half moon key. You will find that the key is only for alignment, there is actually 8 grooved teeth that the cas rotates on, the reason people stuff up is they put it back in the wrong way after the tooth has snapped off.

As far as Im aware the cas is internally (trigger discs) the same from r32-r34, however the camshafts & alignment keys change or something similar rb20 & rb25 series 1 cas are the same other then the plug, they both have the half moon alignment key.

---------

The cas must be working fine & it would still spark and carry on if it was out of alignment. I think my earth cable might be too small so im going to try this tonight.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...